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An Insider's Guide to Aspen

Part rich man’s playground, part ski bum’s paradise, the Rocky Mountain enclave has multiple layers. We asked a few stylish regulars to name the best insider spots.

William Golde

William E. Golde III

Bartender
Belly Up Aspen is a tiny, incredible concert venue that hosts all different types of shows. It is, without question, the place to hear music in town.”

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4 Great Independent Bookstores

Coolest Bookstores: Lello

As transporting as any museum and nourishing as any local dish, these independent bookstores unlock the soul of a place.

Lello Bookshop (pictured), Porto, Portugal
The elaborate neo-Gothic façade of this former library barely hints at the opulence inside: carved wood, gilded pillars, ornamented ceilings, and a gorgeous red staircase lit by a stained-glass atrium. Its polyglot collection includes English translations of Portuguese lions Fernando Pessoa and José Saramago.

Heywood Hill, London
Creaky floorboards and stacks of new and old literature, history, gardening, and travel tomes lend the 77-year-old Mayfair landmark the air of a well-loved private library. Smartly dressed booksellers eagerly provide recommendations for patrons, who include Her Majesty the Queen.

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How to Drink Espresso Like an Italian

how to drink espresso

A Roman institution since 1938, Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè brews 2,000 cups of espresso a day. Co-owner Roberto Ricci shows us how to fit in with the caffeinated locals.

Order: Approach the cashier and say, “Un caffè, per favore.” Or, to make it a double, “un caffè doppio.” Hand over your euros, and make sure to keep the receipt.

Stand: An espresso will cost about three times as much if you sit at a table—a dead giveaway that you’re not from around here. Find an opening at the bar and give the bartender your receipt.

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5 High-Speed Ski Lifts to Check Out This Season

ski lift

These new high-speed chairlifts shave minutes off those mountain rides—which means more time going down than up.

Resort: Mount Snow, Vermont
New Lift: Bluebird Express
Vertical Feet: 1,608
Duration: 7 minutes
Time Savings: 7 minutes

Resort: Bergbahn AG Kitzbühel, Austria
New Lift: Resterhöhe
Vertical Feet: 1,657
Duration: 5:45 minutes
Time Savings: 8 minutes

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Winter 2012 Ski Resort News

Campiglio Val Rendena Val di Sole ski trail

The 2011–12 season ushers in major improvements at these ski resorts.

Northstar California Resort, California
The News: Thanks to a $30 million investment, the mountain welcomes additional trails, a high-speed quad lift, a new 500-seat on-mountain restaurant—plus a 22-foot halfpipe designed by Shaun White. 5001 Northstar Dr., Truckee; 800/466-6784; one-day pass from $85.

Big Sky, Montana
The News: The remodeled, slopeside Solace Spa & Salon expands its treatment rooms and salon services, and Andesite Mountain adds 20-plus gladed acres. 1 Lone Mountain Trail, Big Sky; 800/548-4486; one-day pass $84.

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Best Mountain-Top Meals

Tamarack Lodge

A handful of on-mountain restaurants are reinventing the cafeteria concept.

Heavenly, California: Tamarack Lodge
Peak Pick: Seared peppercorn-encrusted ahi sandwich and house-made peach cobbler.
Getting There: California Trail, a blue run offering views of Lake Tahoe from 3,000 feet up.
Top of the gondola; 775/586-7000; lunch for two $32–$40.

Niseko Village, Japan: Goshiki
Peak Pick: Hokkaido-crab miso soup and local lily bulb tempura.
Getting There: Misoshiru (which means miso soup), a black diamond featuring Niseko’s signature powder.
The Green Leaf; 81-136/443-311; lunch for two $52.

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