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Rome's Latest Foodie Neighborhood

Testaccio: Il Birrivendolo

Follow discriminating Romans to the city’s emerging foodie district—Testaccio—which grows fresher by the day.

At the airy, solar-paneled Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio—which recently replaced a 97-year-old market nearby—you’ll see nonnas searching for fresh pasta and artichokes, and stalls selling everything you came to Italy for: organic olive oil, handmade gnocchi, and tozzetti cookies. Between Via Galvani and Via Alessandro Volta.

Tucked inside the market is 20MQ Design & Derivati, a treasure trove of housewares. Among the quirky finds? A serving tray made from vinyl records and a lamp crafted out of teacups. 66 Via Aldo Manuzio.

Sicilian bakery Sicilia e Duci brings the flavors of the sunny south to Rome: cannoli, fruit-shaped marzipan—even mini cassate, sponge cakes layered with ricotta, chocolate, and candied fruit. 87/89 Via Marmorata.

Italy is having a serious craft-beer moment, and the hole-in-the-wall Il Birrivendolo is the place to try the best artisanal brews. Order the Perle ai Porci stout, which gets its salty flavor from oysters. 12 Via Aldo Manuzio.

New owners have revamped Tuttifrutti, the Mediterranean restaurant with a clean, white interior and a weekly-changing menu. Pastas take center stage; try the mezzi paccheri—with prawns, artichokes, and pecorino. 3/a Via Luca della Robbia. $$

Monumental bronze sculptures by Mexican artist Javier Marín are among the works at MACRO Testaccio, a contemporary art museum set in an 1800’s slaughter-house. (Yes, those are meat hooks hanging from the ceiling.) 4 Piazza Orazio Giustiniani.

Restaurant Pricing Key
$ Less than $25
$$ $25 to $75
$$$ $75 to $150
$$$$ More than $150

Photo by Danilo Scarpati

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