The sixth tee of the Brora Golf Club, in the heart of the Scottish Highlands, affords the golfer one of the game's more majestic views. To the right lies the glistening North Sea. To the left unfolds a panoramic vista of sublime links fairways. From this vantage point, much of the out-and-back layout can be seen, and as I stood on this tee box on a sun-dappled September day, I took the opportunity to count the number of golfers on the course. It didn't take long. There were three, including me.
If a place such as Brora resided in the United States, golfers would sleep in their cars for a tee time. Were it located in one of Scotland's more populous areas, its parking lot would be lined with the idling buses of the package-tour masses. But Brora is in the Highlands, a windswept land of magnificent links where crowds are rarely seen and pretension is never tolerated. It is a land of golf courses without golf carts. A land where dropping greens fees into an "honesty box" feels akin to placing offerings into a collection plate. A land that experienced its most recent golf course building boom during the heyday of the nineties—the eighteen-nineties.
Somewhat shocking to those who visited here in decades past, the Scottish Highlands is also now a land of fine cuisine and first-rate hotels. Choking down burnt haddock and navigating the undulations of old mattresses are no longer the inevitable price paid for getting one's passport stamped.
Still, a good meal and a good bed are not really why anyone should travel to the Highlands. You come here if you're tired of having five attendants vie for the honor of cleaning your clubs. You come here to feel, through your feet, the land that inspired Old Tom Morris, Donald Ross and James Braid. You come here, in other words, for the golf—pure and simple.
ROYAL DORNOCH
Golf Road, Dornoch; 011-44/1862-810-219, royaldornoch.com. Yardage: 6,682. Par: 70. Architects: Old Tom Morris, 1886; Donald Ross, circa 1895; John Sutherland, 18901910. Greens Fees: $137$152. T+L GOLF Rating: *****
Donald Ross called it "the most beautifully situated links in the world." Herbert Warren Wind declared, "No golfer has completed his education until he has played and studied Royal Dornoch." Tom Watson heralded it as "one of the great courses of the five continents. A natural masterpiece. I have played none finer." Indeed, were it not for Dornoch's remote locale, this glorious links would surely have been overrun long ago by the been-there-played-that crowd—and also lost the modest ambience that makes its every round a religious affair. Here, golfers launch drives over plummeting chasms and ponder approaches to upwelling greens. They navigate fanciful drop-offs, strike triple-breaking fifty-yard putts and fall prey to mysterious swales. Through it all, they will commune with holes so brilliantly conceived by Old Tom Morris and Ross that they seem not to have been designed but conjured from the land. A land that was not turned into a golf course but one that turned those who walked it into golfers.
BOAT OF GARTEN GOLF CLUB
Nethybridge Road, Boat of Garten; 011-44/1479-831-282, boatgolf.com. Yardage: 5,876. Par: 70. Architect: James Braid, 1932. Greens Fees: $56$65. T+L GOLF Rating: ****1/2
With whimsical holes bounding over hills and heather and framed by billowy silver birch trees, Boat of Garten feels like a course designed by J.R.R. Tolkien. This delightful layout, however, is clearly the work of James Braid. Composed of a surfeit of testing doglegs and plateau greens, the Boat offers a sterling example of Braid's ability to design to the contours of the landscape. Holes dart into woods and plunge down mogul-run fairways, rising to offer stunning views of the Cairngorm Mountains. Indeed, the only reminder of the outside world comes from the whistle of a nearby steam locomotive. As for the challenge of this par-seventy test: The amateur course record is a sixty-seven. Seventy years of play on a course of less than 6,000 yards, and the best showing is three under par? Braid rests easy in his grave.
CARNEGIE LINKS AT SKIBO CASTLE
Skibo Castle, Dornoch; 011-44/1862-894-600, carnegieclub.co.uk. Yardage: 6,671. Par: 71. Architects: Donald Steel and Tom MacKenzie, 1995. Greens Fee: Free to members and guests of the Carnegie Club. T+L GOLF Rating: ****1/2
Those who say money can't buy happiness have never set foot on the Carnegie Links. When Skibo Castle owner Peter de Savary opened the course a decade ago on a stunning peninsula four miles west of Royal Dornoch, Donald Steel and Tom MacKenzie were universally praised for having coaxed a classic links with cleverly sloping greens from this rolling grassy canvas. The catch was (and still is) that only members and guests of Skibo Castle, who pay four figures per night, can play it. The property has since been bought by a consortium of members (see page tk) who have made the course even better, thanks to some recent subtle redesigns and gorse removal that opened up views of the Struie Mountains and the Dornoch Firth. All in all, a grand reward for the price of a night at the castle.
NAIRN GOLF CLUB
Seabank Road, Nairn; 011-44/1667-453-208, nairngolfclub.co.uk. Yardage: 6,721. Par: 72. Architects: Old Tom Morris, 1890; James Braid, 190926. Greens Fee: $143. T+L GOLF Rating: ****1/2
Since it hosted the Walker Cup in 1999, the Nairn Golf Club has seen its reputation grow exponentially. While Dornoch has long been considered the first tee time to make in the Highlands, conventional wisdom now has it that Nairn is the second. A classic links layout that boasts the dream team design pairing of Old Tom Morris and James Braid, Nairn features an outward nine that meanders west along the stunning banks of the Moray Firth. On the day I played, it also meandered directly into a 60 m.p.h. head wind (which the locals take great pleasure in referring to as "Nairn breezes"). Such prevailing winds frequently wreak havoc on play at Nairn, a course whose holes are lined with a litany of hazards: thick galleries of gorse, strategic mounding and burns, plentiful waste areas and more than 100 revetted bunkers. Said "breezes" can also render putting on Nairn's enormous, contoured greens akin to an act of faith.
BRORA GOLF CLUB
Golf Road, Brora; 011-44/1408-621-417, broragolf.co.uk. Yardage: 6,110. Par: 69. Architects: John Sutherland, 1891; James Braid, 1924. Greens Fees: $56$65. T+L GOLF Rating: ****
Rarely is a course known more for the livestock that graze on it than for the golfers who play it, but such is the case with Brora. Due to ancient grazing rights that continue to this day, local sheep and cattle roam freely over this linksland—electrified wire fences restrict them from the greens. Persistent chomping keeps the rough wispy and forgiving . . . and then there are the cow patties, so ubiquitous that a local rule designates them "casual water." But a cow pasture this is not. Indeed, Brora's craggy landscape is frequently compared to the terrain of North Berwick, and Braid's clever routing here makes the £25 he earned for the work seem, in retrospect, quite the bargain.
DURNESS GOLF CLUB
The Bungalow, Durness; 011-44/1971-511-364, durnessgolfclub.org. Yardage: 5,555. Par: 70. Architects: Francis Keith, Lachlan Ross, Ian Morrison, 1988. Greens Fee: $28. T+L GOLF Rating: ****
Tucked far, far away on the northern Highlands coast, Durness is a nine-holer routed less than two decades ago by three local golfers with virtually no design experience. It seems inconceivable that such a course could achieve the cult status it now holds—inconceivable, that is, to those who've never been to this distant gem. The holes run high along coastal promontories, then plummet inland down roller-coaster fairways, offering views of the North Sea, barren mountains and marram-covered dunes. In truth, Durness is blessed with such an abundance of scenery one is hard-pressed to concentrate on the golf at hand. The last hole is one of the game's most spectacular, a bold par three across a gap in the cliffs to a green on the edge of the world.
GOLSPIE GOLF CLUB
Ferry Road, Golspie; 011-44/1408-633-266, golspie-golf-club.co.uk. Yardage: 5,990. Par: 69. Architect: James Braid, 1905. Greens Fee: $46. T+L GOLF Rating: ****
A round at the unconventional Golspie is a uniquely tri-polar experience: A six-hole stretch of seaside links is followed by a half-dozen heathland holes, while the final third plays through parkland. It's a testament to the genius of James Braid that it all feels not disjointed but delightful. Indeed, each movement is so equally pleasing that even locals can't agree on which is best. Some prefer the rollicking links, whose wild fairways tack along a salty seawall of boulders. Others rave about the second act, "Paradise Corner," which rises into heathland laced with heather, gorse and pines. One suspects that those who prefer the testing parkland holes are merely partial to the pint that awaits them in Golspie's unpretentious clubhouse.
TAIN GOLF CLUB
Chapel Road, Tain; 011-44/1862-892-314, tain-golfclub.co.uk. Yardage: 6,404. Par: 70. Architect: Old Tom Morris, 1890. Greens Fees: $67$82. T+L GOLF Rating: ****
The Golfing Annual of 1896 contains a review of the Tain Golf Club, at the time a twelve-hole course that had been laid out by Old Tom Morris six years prior. It reported that "only two holes can be seen from the tee as the players drive towards them, while in the case of six of them, the flag remains invisible until the player comes well within reach of the disc." This goes to show how little has changed in the past 110 years. Today the hunchbacked fairways are still sheltered by gorse and broom, the greens still tucked behind grassy dunes. It's a peekaboo aesthetic that finds its greatest expression on the par-four eleventh, with a blind approach to a green that cowers behind two enormous mounds. The hole, officially named "The Alps," is called "Dolly Parton" by the members of this quirky club.
NAIRN DUNBAR GOLF CLUB
Lochloy Road, Nairn; 011-44/1667-452-741, nairndunbar.com. Yardage: 6,765. Par: 72. Architect: Uncredited, 1899. Greens Fees: $74$89. T+L GOLF Rating: ***1/2
A local rivalry exists between this and the Nairn Golf Club, located two miles to the west. Unfortunately, it's a fight Dunbar is bound to lose, lying as it does a quarter mile from the ocean and therefore not as spectacular as the seaside Nairn. That said, Dunbar is a thoroughly challenging and superb round of golf. The outgoing holes are the sterner test, with a demanding stretch of lengthy par fours that skirt bushes, pines, lochs and gorse. The incoming holes play easier—unless those mean old westerlies are blowing.
WICK GOLF CLUB
Reiss Sands, Wick; 011-44/1955-602-726, wickgolfclub.com. Yardage: 6,123. Par: 69. Architects: James Braid, circa 1920s; John Sutherland, circa 1930s; Ronan Rafferty and John Hunter, 2002. Greens Fee: $46. T+L GOLF Rating: ***1/2
Originally designed by James Braid and blessed with undulating land, Wick Golf Club got a makeover three years ago to better incorporate the towering dunes that run between the course and the ocean. After consulting with designer Ronan Rafferty, club captain John Hunter hopped onto an earthmover and got to digging. He tucked five new tees and a par-three green high up in the dunes, introducing dynamic drives and angles to several incoming holes along with spectacular views of Sinclair Bay and its castle. Charter members of the James Braid Golfing Society take note: Wick maintains its original tees and greens and can revert to the old layout, if need be.
BEST OF THE REST
An underappreciated links along the northern coast, the Reay Golf Club ($37; 011-44/1847-811-288) is a dunes-slaloming James Braid design that combines with Durness to form an enchanting day of remote linksland joy. The Fortrose & Rosemarkie Golf Club ($56$65; 011-44/1381-620-529) is a local favorite, another Braid links featuring a tumbling opening nine that traces the scenic edge of the Chanonry Peninsula. Twenty-five miles south of Nairn in the Cairngorms National Park is Grantown-on-Spey Golf Club ($46$56; 011-44/1479-872-079), the challenging middle third of which plays through pine-covered hills reminiscent of North Carolina. Also in the Speyside region is Kingussie Golf Club ($41$45; 011-44/1540-661-374), a mountainside layout by Harry Vardon that features meandering burns, a surfeit of elevated greens and a routing with not one but two pairs of back-to-back par threes.
ORIENTATION
There are two ways to reach the Highlands: Some prefer flying to Edinburgh or Glasgow and driving three or more hours north to Inverness, while others opt to fly to London and connect via BMI Airways to the tidy Inverness Airport. However one gets there, the "bonny wee town"—as locals invariably describe it—of Inverness is the crossroads of the region. The commercial and cultural hub of the Highlands, it has a population of 55,000, which might seem small by U.S. standards but is huge in a region in which sheep outnumber people by more than ten to one. Indeed, traveling through the barren hills of the Highlands, one can still feel the echoes of the Clearances, the campaign of forced relocation (some might say "ethnic cleansing") that the English unleashed upon the region some two centuries ago.
The upside to a sparse population? Not much traffic. Which is a good thing, given the challenges of Highlands driving. There are three main roads that area drivers come to rely upon: the north-south A9, which runs through Inverness, Dornoch and Thurso; the A96, which heads east from the A9 through Nairn; and the A95, which extends from the A9 toward the many distilleries of the central Highlands. Although primarily two-lane roads, these are veritable megahighways compared with the one-lane affairs that traverse the remainder of the region. (On these roads, drivers quickly learn the utility of "passing places," the intermittent turnouts that are often all that stand between them and imminent doom.) These byways can be stunningly gorgeous—the entire region is stunningly gorgeous—which makes keeping alert to oncoming lorries a challenge. Finally, although Highlanders are some of the most pleasant folks on earth, their bonhomie does not translate into an ability to give even mildly passable driving directions—an affliction compounded by their sometimes unintelligible Scottish burr. When departing main roads, allow time to get lost.
DISTILLERIES
With more than eighty local distilleries and more than fifty golf courses, it's a common notion that Highlanders spend every waking hour drinking single malts, playing golf—or doing both at the same time. That's not the whole truth, but not far from it. Thus, the challenge for those who wish to tour the area's distilleries is often choosing which ones. The web site scotchwhisky.net helps: Its clickable map of Scotland offers an exceedingly detailed catalog of each distillery's history and bottlings as well as tour information. Those seeking directions to Glenmorangie (011-44/1862-892-043) or wanting to know the water source of Glen Ord (011-44/1463-870-421) will be equally pleased by this resource. A more paint-by-numbers approach can be enjoyed on the Speyside Malt Whisky Trail (maltwhiskytrail.com). A collection of eight of the finer distilleries of the "Whisky Triangle" region surrounding the River Spey, the trail includes stops for the tasty offerings at Glenlivet (011-44/1542-783-220) and tutored nosings at Aberlour (011-44/1340-881-249).
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
When it comes to diversions other than golf and whisky, Inverness actually boasts a wide variety. In addition to enjoying the town's bounty of eateries and pubs, one can learn about man-skirts at the Kiltmaker Centre (011-44/1463-222-781), admire the magnificence of Inverness Castle or walk along the enchanting banks of the fast-running River Ness as it flows through the heart of town. Even quicker-moving water can be found at the Aquadome (011-44/1463-667-500), an indoor water park with flume rides and wave lagoons to keep your clan busy while you slip north for another round at Nairn.
Inverness is also the embarkation point for Loch Ness tours—and no self-respecting fan of hoary hoaxes could visit the Highlands without at least a cursory search for Nessie. (Ignore the trendy killjoy theory that the "monster" is likely a Baltic sturgeon.) By far the finest of these tours is Discover Loch Ness (800-731-5564), which combines a lively guided drive around the Loch, a boat trip across its 700-foot-deep waters to the fascinating ruins of Urquhart Castle and a cheesy Nessie multimedia exhibit called Loch Ness 2000—which your kids will love.
But the Highlands offers more than mere monsters. There is, for starters, an entire subculture of obsessive hill walkers here, each intent upon scaling (or, as they call it, "bagging") all 284 of Scotland's 3,000-plus-foot peaks, which they call Munros. Although these people are clearly insane, the views they earn are often splendid, and a list of Munros for you to conquer can be found in the Outdoors section at lifestyle.scotsman.com. There are also Class IV rapids to be run on the Tummel River, which Splash Whitewater Rafting (011-44/1887-829-706) can arrange. And then there is the Speyside Way, a beguiling footpath that winds for sixty-five miles along the River Spey—a great way to defog after a whisky tasting.
The Highlands also boasts some of the world's finest salmon fishing and grouse hunting. To find a guide for either, ask your hotel concierge or visit fish.visitscotland.com or countrysports.co.uk.
Finally, no Highlands golf pilgrimage would be complete without a visit to the town of Dornoch, the birthplace of Donald Ross. A delightful hamlet, Dornoch is proud of its expatriate son and pays homage to his legacy through a collection of Ross-centric historical sites called the Donald Ross Trail. The tour includes his birthplace as well as the 766-year-old Dornoch Cathedral, which some find fascinating for having hosted the christening of Madonna's baby boy. You, however, might be more partial to the re-creation of Ross's Royal Dornoch pro shop at the Historylinks Museum (011-44/1862-811-275).
TOUR OPERATORS
These trips vary in courses and accommodations; check web sites for details and custom-itinerary options. (Prices listed are per person, excluding airfare.) Many more tour operators can be found via the web site of Scotland's National Tourism Board: golf.visitscotland.com.
PerryGolf (perrygolf.com): Create detailed custom trips through PerryGolf's "Plan Your Own Tour" feature.
Wide World of Golf (wideworldofgolf.com): seven nights, six rounds from $1,990.
Golf Roots (golfroots.co.uk): seven nights, six rounds from $1,242.
InterGolf (intergolfvacations.com): six nights, five rounds from $2,110.
High Road Golf Expeditions (hrge.com): Toronto-based tour operator. Seven nights, six rounds from $2,289 CAD.
Tayleur Mayde Golf Tours (tayleurmayde.com): nine nights, nine rounds (including a visit to the Hebrides Islands) from $2,872.
Golf Vacations Scotland (golfvacationsscotland.com): seven nights, nine rounds from $3,351. Tour begins in St. Andrews.
2 QUAIL
(Modern International) Castle Street, Dornoch; 011-44/1862-811-811. $$$$
In the heart of Dornoch, 2 Quail offers intimate dining at its finest. In a room with only four candlelit tables, chef Michael Carr—who trained at the Ritz in London—and Kerensa, his enchanting hostess, maitre d', waitress and wife, sate guests with such offerings as beef fillet with wild mushrooms and sherry sauce.
BOATH HOUSE
(Contemporary Scottish) Auldearn, Nairn; 011-44/1667-454-896. $$$$
Residing in a restored Georgian mansion, this elegant establishment is owned by enthusiastic proponents of the Slow Food movement—the culinary trend emphasizing local and seasonal ingredients. It shows. The prix fixe menu enjoys a well-deserved reputation for freshness and vibrancy. Patrons order their selections by a roaring fire in the drawing room, then dine in hushed-voice pleasure amid a fanciful collection of artwork by contemporary Scottish artists.
LA RIVIERA
(French Fusion) 20 Ness Bank, Inverness; 011-44/1463-223-777. $$$$
Nestled on the banks of the River Ness, La Riviera has long afforded one of the area's most romantic views. But when it hired chef Loic Lefebvre from France's three-Michelin-starred Le Jardin des Sens last year, it imported a new level of fine dining. Look for such inventive dishes as an intensely flavorful seared mountain hare à la royale, as well as more than 160 whiskys and 125 wines—including a rather pricey ($1,400) 1964 Chateau Latour.
MUSTARD SEED
(Seafood) 16 Fraser Street, Inverness; 011-44/1463-220-220. $$$
With a lively, informal atmosphere and light and flavorful cuisine, Mustard Seed almost feels more California than Scotland. But that doesn't mean it's not revered by locals. Frequently voted best in Inverness by various polls, this eatery occupies a two-level restored church and is always crowded due to its intensely fresh local fare. Make a reservation or prepare to be disappointed.
THE QUIET PIGGY
(Bistro) Station Square, Brora; 011-44/1408-622-011. $$$
Those traveling north from Dornoch would do well to fill their tanks in this sleek and cozy eatery just off the A9 in Brora. With such delectable entrées as roast fillet of saffron monkfish and breast of free-range Barbary duck, it's a challenge to save room for the vanilla-and-rum panna cotta. But by all means, do.
THE RAJAH
(Indian) 2 Post Office Avenue, Inverness; 011-44/1463-237-190. $$
Don't be put off by its slightly garish decor or reasonable prices; the cuisine is first-rate. Opened in 1982, the Rajah has won a loyal following for a robust menu featuring almost twenty different curry recipes and more than thirty "Balti" dishes from the state of Kashmir.
CULLODEN HOUSE
Culloden, Inverness; 011-44/1463-790-461, cullodenhouse.co.uk. Rooms: $400. Suites: $553.
Prince Charles, Brad Pitt, King Carl Gustaf of Sweden, Sean Connery and Tony Blair are just a few of the notables who've hung their hats here. What drew them are the glistening chandeliers, eighteen-foot-high ceilings and marble fireplaces of this majestic private estate—once a Jacobean castle—and the king-size beds in its twenty-eight charming bedrooms. One of Scotland's top five golf hotels.
FORSS COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL
Thurso, Caithness; 011-44/1847-861-201, forsshousehotel.co.uk. Rooms: $181. Suites: $229.
Half of the charm of the rugged links of the northern coast lies in their remoteness. Less charming is the harrowing return trip south at night along the foggy two-lane roads. A better idea is to stay over at this refurbished 200-year-old lodge house with a delightful kitchen and more than 300 malt whiskys in the bar.
THE GOLF VIEW
Seabank Road, Nairn; 011-44/1667-452-301, morton-hotels.com. Rooms: $221 (single). Suites: $515.
There are two sister hotels residing within a par five of the Nairn Golf Club, this one and the Newton Hotel. Both boast recently renovated rooms with heated bathroom floors, comfortable king-size beds and perhaps the softest towels in the Highlands. But the Golf View gets the nod for, well, the golf views. Several of its oceanfront rooms look out upon the enchanting Moray Firth and the Nairn links. Its heated indoor pool and gym also overlook the water.
ROYAL GOLF HOTEL
The First Tee, Dornoch; 011-44/1862-810-283, morton-hotels.com. Rooms: $381. Suites: $515.
A stately stone edifice overlooking Royal Dornoch's first tee, the Royal Golf Hotel has long been revered by visitors for the panoramic views of the course from many of its twenty-five rooms and suites. Some £2 million in renovations later, the hotel also has modern appointments and splendid beds. Best of all is the cozy Tom Morris Bar and the hundred or so malts stocked on its Whisky Wall.
SKIBO CASTLE
Skibo Castle, Dornoch; 011-44/1862-894-600, carnegieclub.co.uk. Suites: $1,325$1,800.
It is hard to overstate the awe-inspiring luxury at this, the former baronial mansion of industrial tycoon Andrew Carnegie. Renovated a decade ago by Peter de Savary for £30 million (and since purchased by a group of members), the almost comically grand accommodations here boast original furnishings and fixtures: an enormous pipe organ, chandeliers, stained-glass windows and silk-canopied, four-poster beds. Guests dine together nightly around a massive oak table, a raucous affair in which one is equally likely to rub shoulders with Greg Norman, Madonna (who wed here) or a billionaire business mogul. But don't get too comfortable: Nonmembers are allowed only one visit to Skibo, after which they must join if they wish to return.
