At its heart, New Mexico is about color and scale. Georgia O'Keeffe introduced the world to the region's unmistakable desert palette beginning in the 1930s, with her vivid paintings of bleached white cattle skulls, vermilion mesas and burnt-sienna adobes. The same vast, arid mountains and open spaces that inspired O'Keeffe have more recently sparked the imaginations of golf course architects and developers, who in the past decade have established New Mexico as a full-fledged golf destination.
There's never been any question about the state's cultural richness, or its high-desert climate of warm, sunny days and crisp, cool nights (not to mention brilliantly star-filled skies). In Santa Fe alone there is world-class summer opera, the architecturally preserved seventeenth-century Plaza and galleries teeming with shoppers in search of works by contemporary artists who have inherited O'Keeffe's abiding fascination with this land.
And it's not as if golf had been previously unknown in these parts. New Mexico produced the LPGA legends Nancy Lopez and Kathy Whitworth as well as the PGA Tour veteran and Native American Notah Begay III. But with the recent openings of rugged—and remarkably well-priced—courses such as Paa-Ko Ridge (2000) and Black Mesa (2003), New Mexico has unquestionably arrived.
WHERE TO PLAY
Black Mesa ****1/2
By now, many golfers know all about the sign—the one
in the clubhouse that warns: BIG COURSE, BIG MEDICINE—IT WILL KICK YOUR BUTT. Indeed, Black Mesa
Golf Club isn't for everybody. The first hole alone could
induce shock in the unwary. It demands a blind tee shot
over an arroyo, a pond and a scrub-covered hill. From
there, the course only gets harder . . . and more
interesting . . . and more spectacular. Located a half-hour
north of Santa Fe, Black Mesa weaves over and through stark
sandstone bluffs to pre- sent a supreme but fair test. The
par-three eleventh, for example, ascends into a box canyon
ringed with rocky escarpments, but beyond a crossing
forebunker the approach is relatively open. The bunkering
throughout is magnificently varied, with some smallish
fringed scrapes that look like they merely evolved and
others formally shaped as if they came from the drafting
table of Alister MacKenzie.
115 State Road 399, La Mesilla; 505-747-8946,
blackmesagolfclub.com. YARDAGE: 7,307.PAR: 72. SLOPE: 141.
ARCHITECT: Baxter Spann, 2003. GREENS FEES: $50–$85.
Paa-Ko Ridge ****1/2
For years Ken Dye (no relation to Pete) was best known as
the architect of America's supreme value course,
Piñon Hills, in remote northwestern New Mexico. With
Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Club, situated between 6,500 and 7,000
feet on the sunrise side of the Sandia Mountains twenty
minutes from Albuquerque and less than an hour from Santa
Fe, Dye created a near- masterpiece that's readily
accessible. Paa-Ko Ridge rambles through junipers, cedars
and piñones, or small pines, occasionally skirting
arroyos and outcroppings of rock. This is high desert, to
be sure, but it's heavily forested; the mountains defining
the horizon are clothed in shades of green. The par threes
form a distinguished quartet, with two of them, the eighth
and fourteenth, checking in at 260-plus yards. But it's the
183-yard fourth you'll remember most, not for the uphill
thrust over a ravine, but for the green itself, which
unfurls in three tiers and stretches a hundred yards end to
end.
One Clubhouse Drive, Sandia Park; 505-281-6000,
paakoridge.com. YARDAGE: 7,562.PAR: 72. SLOPE: 138.
ARCHITECT: Ken Dye, 2000. GREENS FEES: $75–$89.
Pueblo de Cochiti ****
So tucked away that one might be tempted to turn the car
around, thinking there couldn't possibly be a golf course
here, this pristine layout on tribal land is worth the
effort required to find it. Perched on a plateau in the
red-rock foothills of the Jemez Mountains, nearly an hour
north of Albuquerque and forty minutes southwest of Santa
Fe, Pueblo de Cochiti Golf Course can't quite decide if it
wants to be a mountain or a desert layout—it's graced
with elements of both. Robert Trent Jones Jr. returned here
in 2000 and engineered a successful face-lift of his
original 1981 design, smoothing out a few maintenance
wrinkles and adding teeth in the form of twelve new bunkers
and an extra 350 yards. After your round, linger awhile in
the new adobe-style clubhouse, but when the coyote pups
start to howl, you'll realize it's time to rejoin
civilization.
5200 Cochiti Highway, Cochiti Lake; 505-465-2239,
pueblodecochiti.org/golfcourse.html. YARDAGE: 6,817.PAR:
72. SLOPE: 132. ARCHITECT: Robert Trent Jones Jr., 1981.
GREENS FEES: $45–$65.
Sandia ****
Year-old Sandia Golf Club sits on the grounds of one of the
Southwest's largest tribal casinos. The architect, Scott
Miller, is the former Nicklaus designer who created
Arizona's rollicking We-Ko-Pa and Idaho's Coeur d'Alene
Resort (famous for its floating island green), so he
understands that golf should be fun. The back tees are a
whopping 7,772 yards, yet the slope is a measly 125. How
can this be? Simple. The course is long, just not very
hard. The landing areas are generous, and the green
surrounds are soft and friendly. Particularly enjoyable are
the par-four tenth, which plays toward the Sandia
Mountains, and the split-fairway par-four sixth. But you'll
likely return just because the whole place left you
grinning, thanks in part to the homemade green- and
red-chile burritos ordered from the beverage cart.
30 Rainbow Road, Albuquerque; 505-798-3990, sandiagolf.com.
YARDAGE: 7,772.PAR: 72. SLOPE: 125. ARCHITECT: Scott
Miller, 2005. GREENS FEES: $65–$75.
Twin Warriors ****
Even from the oddly named "back" tees (which are actually
third from the back), this Santa Ana Pueblo tribal-land
course stretches to 6,914 yards. Twin Warriors Golf Club,
named after a pair of mythical Pueblo leaders, is hewn from
a muscular landscape and routed around twenty ancient
cultural sites. Yet, knowing most of the play would come
from the Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort & Spa next door,
architect Gary Panks graded the fairways and greens to
minimize awkward shots. You may still lose a few balls in
the dense brush that edges nearly every hole, or in one of
the many arroyos that crisscross the property, but you'll
gain your share of memories. The semiblind, semibrutal
par-four tenth is bisected by a canyon, while the 244-yard
par-three fifteenth plays alongside the sacred Snakehead
Butte.
1301 Tuyuna Trail, Santa Ana Pueblo; 505-771-6155,
twinwarriorsgolf.com. YARDAGE: 7,736.PAR: 72. SLOPE: 130.
ARCHITECT: Gary Panks, 2001. GREENS FEES: $60–$145.
University of New Mexico ***1/2
Phil Mickelson captured the 1992 NCAA Championship here at
one of the nation's standout collegiate courses. The layout
makes a strong first impression, offering a view of
downtown Albuquerque from the ridgetop first tee. The
balance of the course unfolds over heaving terrain that
effectively narrows the playable areas, as shots spinning
the wrong way scurry into the sagebrush. Architect Red
Lawrence is best known for his back-to-nature design at
Arizona's Desert Forest, and here, too, he listened to the
land. It's big, rugged country, with vast and sloping
greens. The course is also close to the airport, so if you
want to play right after you land or right before you take
off, this is the spot.
3601 University Boulevard, SE, Albuquerque; 505-277-4546, golobos.collegesports.com/facilities/nm-facilities.html. YARDAGE: 7,272. PAR: 72. SLOPE: 133.
ARCHITECT: Red Lawrence, 1966. GREENS FEES: $57–$67.
BEST OF THE REST
Santa Ana Golf Club ($21–$55, 505-867-9464), a
frequent Nationwide Tour stop, is less than a mile from
Twin Warriors but a world away in drama—flatter and
far tamer. Just south of the Albuquerque airport, the
linksy Isleta Eagle Golf Course ($38–$50,
505-869-0950) enjoys an enviable location and some
expansive views of the Rio Grande. Marty Sanchez Links de
Santa Fe ($31–$63, 505-955-4400) is just the type of
muni every city should have. Handsome views of the Sangre
de Christo, Jemez, Sandia and Ortiz mountains ease the
sting of a closing bogey at the downhill 485-yard par-four
eighteenth. At Towa Golf Resort ($49, 505-455-9000) in
Pojoaque, fifteen minutes north of Santa Fe, you'll find
the state's only island green. Now twenty-seven holes
(including nine designed by Hale Irwin), the resort is
building a fourth nine.
WHERE TO STAY
The Bishop's Lodge Resort & Spa A five-minute shuttle
from the Plaza, this rustic retreat is awash in Santa Fe
history. In the 1850s the property belonged to Jean
Baptiste Lamy, the city's first archbishop, who was later
immortalized in Willa Cather's novel Death Comes for the
Archbishop. Guests stay in adobe lodges.
1297 Bishop's Lodge Road, Santa Fe; 505-983-6377,
bishopslodge.com. ROOMS: $189–$329. SUITES:
$279–$499.
Eldorado Hotel & Spa Without question, this is Santa
Fe's finest all-purpose hotel. Designed in pueblo-revival
style, it's large enough to accommodate groups but cozy
enough for couples, thanks to touches such as small kiva
fireplaces in the rooms. The hotel is just two blocks from
the Plaza and across the street from the Georgia O' Keeffe
Museum.
309 West San Francisco Street, Santa Fe; 800-955-4455,
eldoradohotel.com. ROOMS: $159–$209. SUITES:
$299–$349.
Hyatt Regency Tamaya Resort & Spa Thirty minutes north
of the Albuquerque airport, this is New Mexico's premier
place for golfers to lodge—Twin Warriors is next door
and Santa Ana Golf Club is a mile down the road. Inhale the
delicious aromas emanating from the traditional pueblo-oven
breadmaking demonstrations and hit the spa for the "Spirit
Path" massage and herbal wrap.
1300 Tuyuna Trail, Santa Ana Pueblo; 505-867-1234,
hyatt.com. ROOMS: $175–$345. SUITES:
$500–$1,100.
Inn of the Anasazi Not the kind of place to go a-hootin'
and a-hollerin' with seven college buddies, this
Southwestern-themed boutique hotel may be only a block from
the bustling Plaza but it oozes a sophisticated and
tranquil aura.
113 Washington Avenue, Santa Fe; 505-988-3030,
innoftheanasazi.com. ROOMS: $209–$339.
La Posada de Santa Fe This cluster of charming
Victorian-tinged adobes sits two blocks east of the Plaza
next to St. Francis Cathedral, amid lush lawns and gardens.
It's a verdant respite from the Wild West high-desert
landscape all around.
330 East Palace Avenue, Santa Fe; 866-331-7625,
laposadadesantafe.com. ROOMS: $189–$299. SUITES:
$389–$429.
WHERE TO EAT
Café Pasqual's (Southwestern) This tiny eatery
serves all three meals, but folks line up down the street
for breakfast. The service is superb, and Pasqual's doesn't
play favorites: Country star LeAnn Rimes recently waited
nearly half an hour for a table just like the rest of us.
Try the polenta with homemade chorizo, corn and red chile.
121 Don Gaspar Avenue, Santa Fe; 505-983-9340. $$$$
Corn Maiden (Modern American) Overlooking the Sandia
Mountains, this adobe-style restaurant at the Hyatt Regency
Tamaya Resort & Spa features an eye-catching open
kitchen, but most memorable is the quality of the food,
which is upscale American dusted with New Mexican accents.
Hyatt Tamaya Resort & Spa, 1300 Tuyuna Trail, Santa Ana
Pueblo; 505-867-1234. $$$$
Frontier Restaurant (New Mexican) A classic or a
dive—it's your call—this jumping place just off
the campus of the University of New Mexico teems with
students, professors and travelers who come twenty-four
hours a day for the handmade tortillas and hangover-fixing
green-chile breakfast burritos.
2400 Central Avenue SE, Albuquerque; 505-266-0550. $
Geronimo (Global/Fusion) Santa Fe's most elegant
see-and-be-seen hangout, Geronimo is housed in a
250-year-old adobe hacienda in the heart of the gallery
district on Canyon Road. It's the perfect place to tuck
into after trolling for that one-of-a-kind Southwestern
sculpture or antique.
724 Canyon Road, Santa Fe; 505-982-1500. $$$$
Maria's New Mexican Kitchen (New Mexican) If you're looking
for authentic New Mexican food, this is the place. The
enchiladas are made with traditional Santa Fe blue-corn
tortillas, and there are 135 margaritas (using ninety
different tequilas) to choose from to wash them down.
555 West Cordova Road, Santa Fe; 505-983-7929. $$
The Old House at Eldorado Hotel (Contemporary) Inspired
chef Martin Rios uses the freshest seasonal ingredients
here, allowing the essence of natural flavors to shine
through in dishes such as mustard-and-pepper-crusted rack
of lamb.
Eldorado Hotel, 309 West San Francisco Street, Santa Fe;
505-988-4455. $$$$
The Shed (New Mexican) Occupying a quaint adobe that dates
to 1692, this modest restaurant oozes charm. Thanks to a
smoky green-chile stew and piquant red-chile enchiladas,
the Shed is a lunchtime favorite among locals and tourists
alike.
113 East Palace Avenue, Santa Fe; 505-982-9030. $$
ORIENTATION
TRAVEL TIPS
New Mexico's finest hotels, restaurants, shops and cultural
attractions are centered in Santa Fe, while most of the
best golf can be found in or near Albuquerque. Not to
worry—it's easy to do both. The best option is to fly
into Albuquerque International Sunport (which is serviced
by nearly every major airline). From there, it's simple to
find your way to Interstate 25. Santa Fe is a one-hour
straight shot to the northeast . If you crave a journey
with more twists, turns and character, try Route 14, the
Turquoise Trail; you'll drive through old mining towns that
are coming back to life with restaurants, theaters and
museums. Either way, rent a car with extra kick, because
you'll ascend 2,000 feet en route.
GETTING ACCLIMATED
Santa Fe, the state capital, is a great
walking city, with most of its attractions conveniently
centered around the Plaza, a classic town square that dates
to the early 1600s. However, the city sits at about 7,000
feet, so if you're unaccustomed to high altitude, take a
day or so to get acclimated. Don't overdo the
exercise—or the alcohol consumption—until your
lungs adjust to the thin mountain air.
NM PLUS
ART SCENE
Santa Fe is home to one of the largest art markets in the
United States. The biggest concentration of the city's
250-plus galleries can be found on Canyon Road, in a row of
adobe-style buildings displaying everything from paintings
and sculpture to Native American arts and crafts. There's
also the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum (okeeffemuseum.org),
showcasing the work of the expressive painter who nearly
single-handedly put Santa Fe on the map.
SANTA FE OPERA
A summertime tradition for nearly half a century, the Santa
Fe Opera (santafeopera.org) features some of the world's
leading up-and-coming singers, conductors and stage
designers. The opera house itself is part of the appeal: a
modern, open-air theater that's sculpted into a hillside.
The curvilinear rooflines are designed to express the
"shape of sound."
JAPANESE SPA
East meets Southwest at Ten Thousand Waves Spa & Resort
(tenthousandwaves.com) in the mountains just northeast of
Santa Fe. Designed after a Japanese onsen, or hot spring,
the luxury spa offers private and communal hot baths as
well as ten kinds of massage, including Japanese hot stone,
Thai and "salt glow," in which sea salt is mixed with warm
oil to exfoliate the skin.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
CLIMATE
Albuquerque-area courses sit at 4,500 to 6,500 feet above
sea level, but even at that altitude, temperatures in
summer can reach the mid-90s or higher. It's almost always
a dry heat, which makes it easier to bear, but be sure to
drink plenty of fluids. Given its even higher elevation,
Santa Fe enjoys slightly cooler temperatures, with
summertime highs in the low 90s and low humidity the norm.
If that still sounds a little warm, consider a spring or
fall visit. You'll also avoid the afternoon thunderstorms
that hit in July and August.
EXTRA CARRY
A rule of thumb on clubbing in New Mexico: Factor in an
additional 10 percent of carry for every mile of elevation.
So if you normally hit a seven-iron 150 yards, in mile-high
Albuquerque it will fly 165. They don't call it the Land of
Enchantment for nothing.
PRIVATE GEMS
Las Campanas in Santa Fe features two Jack Nicklaus
courses, Sunrise (1993) and Sunset (2000).
Immaculately groomed in bent grass, both eighteens are
routed through juniper and piñon trees, with
sagebrush and mountains all around. The Sunset was
christened in a Shell's Wonderful World of Golf match
between Nicklaus and Ben Crenshaw in 2001. (Jack won by
five strokes.)
