Epicurean Excursion in North Hatley, Quebec
The lakeside village of North Hatley—87 miles east of Montreal and just 20 miles north of the U.S. border—is the summer destination of the province's heavy hitters (the premier of Quebec has a second home there). Expect to find a food-lover's playground: raw-milk cheeses, duck foie gras, and apple cider pressed by Benedictine monks.
What To Do
Tour Lake Massawippi with guide Capitan Ross on his 1957 mahogany boat, Old Shep (dock at Hovey Manor; 819/842-2421; tours $25 per person). On Saturdays, gather with town chefs at the weekly farmers' market on Rue School for tender lettuces, lavender honey, and smoked trout. Then stop by the 119-year-old LeBaron Grocery (105 Main St.; 819/842-2487) to stock up on Québécois cheeses.
Where to Eat
Chef Roland Ménard opened Hovey Manor restaurant (575 Chemin Hovey; 819/842-2421; dinner for two $110) 26 years ago. His seared duck breast with pan-roasted wild mushrooms is a standout; the after-dinner cheese cart selection includes Grand Manitou, a pungent combination of goat's, cow's, and sheep's milk. Le Coeur d'Or (85 Rue School; 819/842-4263; dinner for two $60) is the place to go, for a rosy filet mignon with a blue-cheese sauce.
Where to Stay
Hovey Manor (575 Chemin Hovey; 819/842-2421; manoirhovey.com; doubles from $280, including breakfast and dinner) is a Georgian inn right on the lake. The 39 rooms have exposed wooden beams, fireplaces, and hand-painted checkerboards for late-night games.
Capitan Ross suggests visiting St. Benoît-du-Lac (Chemin Fisher, Austin; 819/843-4080; st-benoit-du-lac.com), the local Benedictine monastery: "The monks invite guests to pick apples in their orchard and sample house-made cheeses and cider."