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A Wine Lover's Retreat on Long Island's North Fork

North Fork

Though the upper eastern tip of Long Island—a 30-mile strip with oceanside plains, tidy villages, and rows of grapevines—has already been discovered, it's still a quiet alternative to the nearby Hamptons. Plus, its emerging wineries produce top-notch wines that are showing up on menus across the country.

What to Do

Start in the town of Southold at The Old Field (59600 Main Rd.; 631/765-0004; theoldfield.com). Owners Chris and Ros Baiz will give you a history of the Fork's viticulture as they pour you a glass of their red Rooster Tail. Nearby, Michael and Paula Croteaux run Croteaux Farm Vineyard (1450 South Harbor Rd., Southold; 631/765-6033), the only winery in the United States dedicated solely to rosé.

Where to Eat

In Greenport, the Frisky Oyster (27 Front St.; 631/477-4265; dinner for two $90) is true to its name—the lively bivalves here range from the local island variety to ones from as far away as Oregon. Right on the harbor, Scrimshaw (102 Main St.; 631/477-8882; dinner for two $120) serves fresh sea-scallop ceviche. At the North Fork Table & Inn (57335 Main Rd., Southold; 631/765-0177; dinner for two $120), the cod cake with black-truffled tartar sauce is as addictive as the warm cinnamon-cream doughnut holes.

Where to Stay

Check into the recently opened Shinn Estate Farmhouse (2000 Oregon Rd., Mattituck; 631/804-0367; shinnfarmhouse.com; doubles from $225). The four rooms look out on the property's vineyard, and the floors are lined with pine, fir, and oak.

Insider Tip

"The Normandy fondue at the Village Cheese Shop [105 Love Lane, Mattituck; 631/298-8556; fondue for two $25]—made with Époisses and Saint Albray—goes great with a glass of our crisp Merlot 314 rosé," vintner Michael Croteaux says.

—Charlotte Druckman

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