Off-Season Beach Bargains

What It's Like: It's deliciously lonesome out here; no development is permitted on the island's beaches, so even the boardwalks that bridge the dunes from water to parking areas seem strangely unnatural. Still, bundle up a bit when you board the ferry in winter—temperatures are usually around 50.

What to Do: Bring a book and maybe a kite, lazily keep an eye on the harbor for the next ferry, eavesdrop on the fishermen at dinnertime, linger a little in shops to pick up local news. You'll find yourself slowing down to island time. That alone is worth the trip.

Where to Stay and Dine: Captain's Landing Hotel, Dockage & Suites (252/928-1999; thecaptainslanding.com; off-season suites from $110) offers private decks, harbor views, and full kitchens. Grab a sandwich at Flying Melon (252/928-2533) and have lunch on the beach, then enjoy the lack of crowds at local favorite Café Atlantic (252/928-4861), on the water.