Namibia’s wilderness—a land of volcanic mountains and epic dunes—is also the backdrop for a growing number of stylish hideaways.
Serra Cafema Camp, Kaokoland
Namibia's Top Safari Lodges
Serra Cafema Camp, Kaokoland
Greener than the Namib, Kaokoland, in Namibia’s northwest corner, is a tableau of dales framed by volcanic mountains. The region is home to many Himba, a nomadic people numbering 12,000 who are scattered throughout northwestern Namibia and southern Angola. The women are especially striking, with elaborately braided dreadlocks and glistening red skin (a special paste protects them from the sun). At the Serra Cafema Camp (doubles from $813, all-inclusive), the main lodge sits on stilts in an oasis of green albida trees above the Kunene River, which separates Namibia and Angola. The eight loftlike chalets are filled with carved Nguni furniture, and in the bathrooms, copper basins are mounted on log pedestals. The food is sophisticated—especially the candlelit dinners, which might include fish en papillote followed by a chocolate mousse. Take a hike with Franco Morao, one of the camp’s top guides. Morao will point out goliath herons and fresh sets of long, smooth crocodile tracks. He’s also good at spotting small creatures, such as pairs of toktokkie beetles, the males piggybacking on the females to shade them while they forage for food.
Namibia came onto the pop-culture radar three years ago, when Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt stayed at a beach resort on the country’s Atlantic coast here while awaiting the birth of their third child. For many, it was the most they had ever heard about this southern African locale, which, it turns out, has a lot more going for it than a brush with Hollywood celebrity.
Namibia has been quietly coming into its own for more than a decade. In addition to spectacular landscapes—vast deserts with thousand-foot sand dunes and a coastline strewn with bleached whalebones and ancient shipwrecks—Namibia has some of the biggest yet least-known game parks in the world. The fourth-largest country in Africa (it’s twice the size of California, which means a flying safari is the best way to see its wonders), Namibia has one of the continent’s smallest populations but one of the highest literacy rates—and most stable democracies.
The country is delightfully unspoiled, and the government wants to keep it that way. Tourism here is low-key: the emphasis is on small, well-designed, environmentally sensitive lodges in remote areas of the country. The last decade, especially, has seen a number of exciting new properties make their debuts in remote areas of the country.
For instance, the Namib Desert—the second largest on the planet after the Sahara—runs for 1,200 miles along the entire Atlantic coast of the country. A decade ago, adventure-travel company Wilderness Safaris acquired a 90,000-acre spread adjacent to the colossal Sossusvlei sand dunes to create the Kulala Wilderness Reserve. Today, this private park contains three small lodges—the newest of which is Little Kulala, which offers 11 stylish, thatched-roof villas, each equipped with a rooftop terrace for stargazing.
Kaokoland, in Namibia’s northwest corner, is greener than the Namib and is home to many Himba, a nomadic people numbering 12,000 who are scattered throughout northwestern Namibia and southern Angola. The Serra Cafema Camp here features a main lodge sitting on stilts, offering stunning vistas of an oasis of green albida trees above the Kunene River.
Whether your preference is for a tented resort in the desert or a casbah-style fort on a zebra-filled reserve, Namibia has a safari lodge that is worth the trek.
Richard Alleman is a contributing editor to Vogue and a frequent contributor to Travel + Leisure.
All of the lodges will help you arrange air transfers from Windhoek’s Hosea Kutako International Airport. Alternatively, book your trip through a seasoned travel agent. Phoebe Weinberg of Greatways Travel (313/886-4710) is one of the best around for Namibia. Outfitters such as Uncharted Outposts and Abercrombie & Kent can also help arrange your itinerary.