Las Vegas's Best Restaurants

Twist restaurant, Las Vegas
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Coral Von Zumwalt

T+L tours Sin City to find Las Vegas’s best restaurants.

Twist

13 of 16

On the 23rd floor of the Mandarin Oriental hotel is Twist, the first stateside restaurant from chef Pierre Gagnaire.

Where Robuchon went plush, Twist goes spare, bordering on ascetic. Tiny globe pendants, flickering like distant planets, hang from a double-height ceiling. The room’s pale, chilly lighting is more suited to a museum—or a spaceship. This is not a place to propose.

Gagnaire’s cooking is quirky and cerebral, which doesn’t mean it can’t be fun. The amuse-bouche: shards of cumin flatbread to dip into tuna-infused Chantilly, then into a ramekin of dehydrated shrimp that crackle like Rice Krispies upon contact with the cream. Each course includes three separate dishes on three separate plates, like foie gras–and-fig terrine, studded with Sauternes-soaked apricots and cosseted in speck; rhubarb-and-eggplant mousse; and a salad of pickled chanterelles, pickled onions, and mâche, drizzled in beet syrup.

But the meal peaks early: Hamachi ceviche is served on a chicory-and-grapefruit salad so brassy and bitter it overwhelms the fish; and poached cod is buried in a cloying reduction.

Twist restaurant, Las Vegas

Las Vegas's Best Restaurants

Twist

On the 23rd floor of the Mandarin Oriental hotel is Twist, the first stateside restaurant from chef Pierre Gagnaire.

Where Robuchon went plush, Twist goes spare, bordering on ascetic. Tiny globe pendants, flickering like distant planets, hang from a double-height ceiling. The room’s pale, chilly lighting is more suited to a museum—or a spaceship. This is not a place to propose.

Gagnaire’s cooking is quirky and cerebral, which doesn’t mean it can’t be fun. The amuse-bouche: shards of cumin flatbread to dip into tuna-infused Chantilly, then into a ramekin of dehydrated shrimp that crackle like Rice Krispies upon contact with the cream. Each course includes three separate dishes on three separate plates, like foie gras–and-fig terrine, studded with Sauternes-soaked apricots and cosseted in speck; rhubarb-and-eggplant mousse; and a salad of pickled chanterelles, pickled onions, and mâche, drizzled in beet syrup.

But the meal peaks early: Hamachi ceviche is served on a chicory-and-grapefruit salad so brassy and bitter it overwhelms the fish; and poached cod is buried in a cloying reduction.

Coral Von Zumwalt
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