Best Places to Spend Christmas
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Why Go: Christmastime may be damp and foggy, but with the hordes long gone, service is relaxed and friendly, and at night, you may have the moonlit Piazza San Marco all to yourself.
Where to Stay: The opulent Hotel Cipriani is available during the holidays, and the staff is sure to fuss over you. For a more intimate experience, consider Ca' Pisani, a boutique hotel with a vaguely futuristic look.
Holiday Dinner: Italians have their big feast on the 24th. At Do Forni, indulge in one of its signature dishes, such as risotto with shrimp and seasonal vegetables or baked branzino with potatoes, tomatoes, and oregano. De Pisis at the Hotel Bauer riffs on traditional fare: turbot fillet with glazed chestnuts, fondant pumpkin and smoked ham from Tyrol.
—Peter J. Frank