Eric Wolfinger

Flour + Water, San Francisco

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Before opening this pizza-meets-pasta spot in the Mission District with partners David Steele and David White, Thomas McNaughton was sous chef at two of San Francisco’s great restaurants, Gary Danko and Quince, and staged at Michelin-starred restaurants in France, Germany, and Italy. So what? So this is serious pizza: light and crispy with great sauce, delicate crust, and toppings like sausage, summer squash, eggplant, and Padrón peppers. The changing tasting menu features light, well-crafted pastas with interesting off-center flavors: pickled veal tongue, rabbit, hen, and lamb shank.

Best Italian Restaurants in the U.S.

Flour + Water, San Francisco

Before opening this pizza-meets-pasta spot in the Mission District with partners David Steele and David White, Thomas McNaughton was sous chef at two of San Francisco’s great restaurants, Gary Danko and Quince, and staged at Michelin-starred restaurants in France, Germany, and Italy. So what? So this is serious pizza: light and crispy with great sauce, delicate crust, and toppings like sausage, summer squash, eggplant, and Padrón peppers. The changing tasting menu features light, well-crafted pastas with interesting off-center flavors: pickled veal tongue, rabbit, hen, and lamb shank.

Eric Wolfinger

Best Italian Restaurants in the U.S.

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