America's Best Small Ski Towns

The transformation of Jackson Hole from a fur trappers’ refuge into one of the world’s wealthiest enclaves has seen a concurrent exodus of nonmillionaires 25 miles across the Idaho border into the Teton Valley, home to the tiny towns of Victor, Driggs, and Tetonia. Here, on the gentle western slopes of the Teton Mountains, agriculture remains an economic mainstay, and life still moves at a tractor’s pace. Driggs resident Andrea Swedberg, who moved here 11 years ago, has been observing the changes. “Even though I keep seeing more and more people I don’t know, the valley still feels like a small town,” she says.

In Town: Small it may be, but the area certainly doesn’t lack sophistication. These days you can get an artisanal cheese platter at Swedberg’s newly opened Forage restaurant (dinner for two $50), and a heavenly duck breast–and-scallop dinner at the Sun Dog Deli and Café (dinner for two $80). In Tetonia, meanwhile, you can shack up like a billionaire at the Teton Ridge Ranch (doubles from $690), which owner (and Microsoft cofounder) Paul Allen bought in 1993. In true Silicon Valley–goes–Wild West fashion, his 4,000-acre private spread, with a 45-horse stable, has only seven guest rooms.

On the Slopes: Despite all the development, Teton Valley’s main draw is what it’s always been: stunning mountains and miles and miles of wilderness. Just out back lies the Grand Teton National Park, part of the 20 million–acre Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. The Hole Hiking Experience (six-hour tours $125) takes people on interpretive snowshoe and cross-country-skiing tours through the park’s fir forests and alpine meadows. As for downhill skiing, 12 miles east of Driggs lies the uncrowded Grand Targhee Resort (lift ticket $59), known for its mellow clientele, broad groomed runs, and views of the shark-fin Grand Teton peak.