50 Best New U.S. Restaurants

Houston: Textile

In contrast to the sturdy pleasures of Feast stands the rather more ethereal Textile, folded into a former 1892 mill in the happening Heights District. A new and ambitious venture of perfection-driven Scott Tycer, a former Food & Wine magazine “Best New Chef,” the 10-table spot is diaphanous and fabric-draped. Flexing his culinary imagination on the ever-changing prix fixe menus, Tycer might sneak the tart notes of apple juice into the crème fraîche velouté for the scallops; or embellish a mini bacon-and-onion tart with glistening greens and two tiny quail eggs. Sweet provocations—smoked brownies, liquefied pumpkin pie—from dessert whiz Plinio Sandalio send guests home all smiles. Dinner for two $170.