50 Best New U.S. Restaurants
Houston: Feast
Last year was rough for Houstonians, but having recovered from Hurricane Ike, they’re back to the business of eating well—and local chefs are indulging them with new zeal. One of the most nourishing and idiosyncratic spots to open in town since, well, ever, is Feast, set in a rambling Arts and Crafts house in Montrose. The charmingly bare-bones place belongs to a pair of Brits who channel the gutsy embrace of nose-to-tail eating of Fergus Henderson, from London’s St. John. Now Houstonians can’t imagine how they ever lived without the brawny joys of black pudding (served up with a green shock of minted peas and a sunny fried egg), the earthy rewards of rutabaga and cabbage, and the unctuous soulfulness of long-simmered pork cheeks offset with dandelion leaves. Why, the lads even do a properly British Sunday roast! Dinner for two $75.