25 Secret Seaside Getaways
Why Go Now: This archipelago, an outpost of French Polynesia, has the geographic distinction of being the farthest group of islands from any continental landmass, and yet it is just a three-hour flight from Papeete, Tahiti’s capital, on Air Tahiti (airtahiti.pf). The island Hiva Oa (population 1,991) lacks the blue lagoons and overwater bungalows of Moorea or Bora-Bora, but travelers in search of peace and quiet will find it here in the primeval landscape of cliffs, waterfalls, and ironwood forests. Hiva Oa is also where French artist Paul Gauguin spent the final years of his career, and the island draws plenty of pilgrims who are traveling in his footsteps.
The Details: The main island’s only hotel, Hiva Oa Hanakee Pearl Lodge (Doubles from $267), has 14 bungalows, some of which face the lush Tehueto valley and Tahauku Beach. Each bamboo-lattice bungalow is outfitted with woven-palm wall coverings, carved tiki poles, and traditional bark-paper paintings.
Arrange a tour with Pearl Lodge’s guide Lecortier Tematai, who will point out trellised vanilla orchids and petroglyphs and expertly maneuver dirt-road switchbacks under a canopy of acacia and mango trees. He’ll drive you by Polynesia’s largest stone tiki, then stop for a typical Marquesan lunch (tuna ceviche, goat curry, fried breadfruit) at the house of native chef Pua Poevai.
In the main village, Atuona, the narrow thoroughfare is lined with shops selling Tahitian beer and one-story whitewashed houses with fishing boats lying in the yards. Gauguin’s grave is on a hill at Calvary Cemetery in the village, and the Paul Gauguin Cultural Center showcases 92 reproductions of his works. A stroll on the village’s black-sand beach at the base of 4,186-foot Mount Temetiu is the best way to end the day. You can rest assured that very few travelers have ever done the same. —Shane Mitchell
