Sukalde

After stints at New York City's Daniel and Spain's Arzak and El Bulli, Chilean chef Matías Palomo opened Sukalde in 2006—introducing his conservative hometown to molecular gastronomy. The playful menu (there's a 10-course tasting inspired by a meal served on the Titanic) presents tuna tartare with caviarlike soy sauce beads and lemon-peel puree, and grilled konzo (a rare Pacific fish) in cilantro-spiked apple puree with rice noodles and curry "air." As for wine, pillar-style racks in the dining room hold bottles by the neck, an attractive and seemingly precarious arrangement.

We loved: Duck magret and confit with orange, cardamom and berry purees.