Sichuan Provincial Government Office Restaurant

Every province in China has an official, state-run restaurant in Beijing, and the Sichuan outpost is particularly outstanding. That’s no surprise, given that the region has what is arguably the country’s most popular cuisine, beloved for its complex flavors, which combine sweet, salty and peppery notes. The bland interior and pink plastic tablecloths are typically Communist, but the festive atmosphere created by diners playing Chinese drinking games compensates.

We loved: Thin, spicy dan dan wheat noodles with sesame sauce.

Insider tip: Arrive by 6 p.m. or after 8:30 to avoid long lines.