Sfoglia

Working the same mojo that’s put them on speed-dial for New York City celebrities (the regulars at Sfoglia’s Manhattan location include Tom Cruise and Jerry Seinfeld), chef-owners Ron and Colleen Suhanosky have a deep understanding of how Italian-food lovers want to eat. As with the New York outpost, the dining room here feels more like a family gathering place than a restaurant: worn plank floors, a fireplace, weathered-wood wine racks, and tables set with adorably mismatched plates and cutlery all invite settling in and staying a while. So do the simple, rustic, and delicious dishes (inspired by the recipes of Ron’s own grandmother): a simple starter of cold fava beans tossed with Pecorino and toasted walnuts might be followed by a hearty scallion polenta with morels and cured swordfish. The menu changes frequently, but thankfully, certain dishes—like Ron’s hearty pappardelle Bolognese (made with lamb, veal, sweet Italian sausage, and pork), and Colleen’s sublime chocolate-espresso-hazelnut semifreddo—are always available.

Tip: Turn off your cell phone once you arrive. The dining room’s intimate size pretty much ensures that your ringtone will annoy your fellow diners.