Antico Forno Marco Roscioli

Induge in the chewy pizza bianca at Antico Forno Roscioli, by the Campo de Fiori? “Una droga” is how one customer praises this pizza. Using a natural yeast starter for his three-foot-long oblongs, master baker Pierluigi Roscioli also favors cool, long fermentation and a rest under an olive-oil glaze—to develop that upper-crust toastiness. The super-thin rossa shimmers with a red pomodoro sheen; pizza with basil and mozzarella clumps makes an ornamental herbal patch. But bianca is best.