Ristorante Baldin

Luca Collami's restaurant feels like an exclusive private club. Sugarello—a kind of mackerel—is served raw with basil oil, chopped olive, and red pepper. Or, in contrast, try the equally delicious steamed zucchini flower stuffed with heavily anchovied stockfish. Even better is the potato gnocchi with seppiolini that had the dark, intense flavor of pan juices and caramelized onions: cuttlefish for liver lovers.