O’Pazo

When he’s not running his old-fashioned marisquería (seafood place), owner Evaristo García also supplies seafood to the Spanish Royal Palace. His faithful customers lay down small fortunes for his cigalas (spiny lobsters), percebes (goose barnacles) and huge red Dénia prawns—all prepared with the utmost simplicity. There are few sauces, and no side dishes or garnishes; even asking for lemon is considered a sacrilege.

We loved: Shrimp a la plancha with specks of coarse salt; grilled sole.