O Ya

In his hard-to-find restaurant with high ceilings and dark brick walls, chef-owner Tim Cushman brilliantly and improbably combines his Japanese training with his New England background in dishes like grilled lobster with shiso tempura. Nancy Cushman’s sake list covers several grades of artisanal bottlings, such as junmai daiginjo.

We loved: Seared foie gras nigiri in aged sake; fried Kumamoto oysters with yuzu aioli and squid-ink bubbles.