O'Farrell

Owners Hubert and Pamela O'Farrell (he's the chef, she does the pastries) preside over the open kitchen in this mellow, posh restaurant in a wealthy suburb a 30-minute drive from the center of town. The Med-French menu uses local produce and imported ingredients in dishes that range from the simple (roast lamb) to the more elaborate (artichoke-mascarpone ravioli with pine nuts and Grana Padano cheese).

We loved: Roast baby lamb with polenta and watercress.