Mr. Chow, Beverly Hills

The second outpost of this famed, nouveau-Chinese eatery—helmed by chef, artist, and Renaissance man Michael Chow—actually lives up to the hype. Chow’s menu titillates the palate rather than fills the stomach; small plates like diced squab in crisp lettuce cups, spicy shrimp dumplings, and house-made garlic noodles (served tableside with great ceremony) are delicious but light enough to leave you wanting dessert of crispy Chinese almond cookies and a foamy cappuccino. If you’re feeling adventurous, do as the attentive, suit-wearing servers recommend and go for the five-course blind tasting spread.