Mandina’s

This century-old business began as a Sicilian grocery and evolved into a neighborhood restaurant. It was virtually destroyed by the levee breaches but reopened in 2007 with a polished new look and the original menu: a mix of Creole, Cajun, soul-food and red-gravy dishes that locals file under Creole-Italian. Purists may grumble that the floors no longer slope, but Mandina’s still serves some of New Orleans’s best downscale cooking.

We loved: Spaghetti and meatballs; fried-seafood po’boys.

Insider tip: Mandina’s doesn’t take reservations. Arrive early to get a table.