L'Arcangelo

This trattoria in the Prati neighborhood serves up classic Italian regional dishes with modern twists. Suppli, fried tidbits of rice, ground meat, mozzarella, and tomato sauce are presented in sections of cardboard egg cartons one day and colorful paper cones the next. Squab is delivered to the table under a dome that, when lifted, reveals wafts of aromatic smoke. Toy matchbox cars sit atop the white-linen-topped tables in this casual wood-paneled dining room. The wine list boasts mostly Italian varietals.