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Barcelona
La Taverna del Clínic
Taverna—which resembles a dozen other barrio bars, with Ronaldinho kicking the ball on the tele suspended above the long marble counter—has a treasure in its 25-year-old chef, Toni Simoes, an alumnus of the three-starred Racó de Can Fabes. Griddled squid here gets a citrusy jolt of yuzu; rice richly perfumed with wild mushrooms arrives in a teeny black skillet.
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