Juana la Loca

This is tapas for grown-ups who like to sit down—if they can get a seat (reservations are a must). A huge bar takes up much of the main dining room, and tables are in high demand. Juana la Loca was (the story goes) the mad daughter of Queen Isabella I, and though the food here has been known to make diners swoon, there’s no real connection. Start with a traditional tortilla—a thick and juicy potato omelette with caramelized onions—and move on to a meeting of Spain and the Far East in the pato: cucumber, onion, honey, and duck wrapped in rice paper. Cod, served tempura style with an artichoke sauce, is buttery and flaky on the inside and melts in your mouth.