Biko

Bruno Oteiza and Mikel Alonso, disciples of avant-garde Spanish chef Juan Mari Arzak, have divided their menu into two sections, traditional and "evolution." Both focus on Basque ingredients and techniques, used in varying degrees of orthodoxy or innovation. Prices are high—befitting the restaurant's location in an expensive shopping district—but the dining room has a relaxed atmosphere.

We loved: Raw salmon with "smoke paper" (made from potato flour) and red and black caviar.