Not the usual dismal Sino-Scottish gastronomic compromise, this Chinese-Malaysian restaurant serves boldly flavorful regional dishes, full of standout ingredients like shrimp paste, coconut milk, lime leaf and chiles. Though basic and functional in design and lit with unforgivingly harsh bulbs, it brings in a steady clientele of Chinese diners, off-duty chefs and devoted locals.

We loved: Soft-shell crab stir-fried with salt and chiles.

Insider tip: One portion of many dishes can easily serve two or three normal appetites.