A.O.C.

The name, which stands for Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (the French system regulating the quality of local wines and cheeses), clues foodies and oenophiles to this restaurant’s focus: wines, shareable small plates, and top-notch cheeses and charcuterie. Chef and co-owner Suzanne Goin (of Lucques fame) has conceived a menu of small plates that draws on the finest local produce: pork rillettes are served with pickled onions, and arroz negro with squid arrives with a big dollop of garlicky saffron aioli. The eclectic cheese selection regularly includes such obscurities as Estrella la Peral, a blue from Asturias, and Hooligan, from Colchester, Connecticut; a variety of artisanal cured meats and sausages are always available. As accompaniment, more than 50 international and California wines are offered by the glass.