Aldea

Portuguese-American chef George Mendes’s menu (the most perfect salt-cod croquettes west of Iberia; refined-rustic rice studded with bits of chorizo, olives, and duck confit and cracklings) is a succession of highs. Book a seat at the open-kitchen counter to watch Mendes and his tattooed team in action, grating Meyer lemons onto a gorgeous composition of smoked fluke, almond milk, and crunchy soy pellets.