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Elements of high design abound in this stylish capital, where Eliel Saarinen and Alvar Aalto, the
fathers of Finnish modernism, are revered the way sports heroes are in other cities. Their legacy lingers in the buildings they left behind, all low white blocks and unadorned granite. The onion-domed Uspenski Cathedral may be a landmark—and a reminder of Russia’s former influence—but it’s the architecture from the 1960’s and beyond that really defines the streetscape. The vibe on the sidewalks is youthful, the restaurants are fashionably furnished, and the cafés in Kallio, an emerging artists’ neighborhood, are ideal for dark winter nights and long summer evenings when the sun never quite sets.