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A product of the imagination—and iron will—of Peter the Great, the city is a busy tableau of architectural whimsies (Neoclassical colonnades, palaces of yellow and mint green). Peter envisioned his imperial capital as a window into Europe, and it has long been a center of culture and sophistication, with some of the world’s best art and ballet. The Soviet years were hard on St. Petersburg, and its ties with Europe were cause for official suspicion—and neglect. Ever since native son Vladimir Putin took office, however, the city has been getting a face-lift. Streets are newly landscaped, and a $2 billion refurbishment of the urban center—sparked by the 2003 tercentennial celebration—has created a flashy backdrop for the nouveau-riche residents.
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