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Undeniably cosmopolitan, Peru’s capital gives the impression of a frenetic city full of skyscrapers and shopping malls. But it also holds thousands of years of history. Fourth-century Pre-Columbian ruins hide in the long shadows of office towers, and Spanish Colonial buildings line the historic central square. Despite the poverty, pollution, and a chilly coastal fog that lingers throughout the winter months, vibrant neighborhoods like Miraflores and Barranco flourish, and their fashionable bars remain full long past midnight. Equally dynamic is the food. Chefs are introducing complex flavors from the Pacific Ocean and the Andes, resulting in one of Latin America’s most interesting restaurant scenes.

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