Head to the buzzy Barrio Italia neighborhood for an espresso and Chocolatón (a wickedly rich chocolate cake) at Café Emporio Da Noi (1776 Avda. Italia). For pizzas and generous charcuterie platters, wait it out at the scene-y Ciudadano (400 Seminario; $$), where reservations are a tough score. The local music spot Café Bar Cinco Minutos (451 Avda. Santa Isabel)offers a small but standout menu, including a gloriously oozy steak-and-cheese sandwich—often called the city’s best.
At Sukalde (3451 Nueva Costanera; $$$), El Bulli alum Matías Polomo focuses on unsung regional ingredients such as Patagonian mushrooms. Osadía (3677 Nueva Costanera; $$$) puts artful spins on such classic dishes as chupe de jaiba, a buttery crab pudding. For gussied-up Chilean barbecue, check out Tierra Noble (3872 Nueva Costaneral; $$$), where grilled foie gras shares the stage with Easter Island tuna (pictured).
Pisco has acquired a posh new identity. Ultra-premium takes on the Chilean and Peruvian botanical spirit are the draw at the sleek Mestizo (4050 Avda. Bicentenario) and Tramonto Terrace & Bar (3736 Nueva Costanera), on a minimalist rooftop pool deck.
Restaurant Pricing Key
$ Less than $25
$$ $25 to $75
$$$ $75 to $150
$$$$ More than $150