The tiny Polpetto made a big splash when it opened in Soho, in 2010, taking the nascent small-plates trend to new heights and making a star of chef Florence Knight. Its closing last year caused much rending of garments: what could ever take the place of her Venetian-style salt cod? Hunger no more, London: Polpetto is reopening this February on Berwick Street, with room for an open kitchen and a marble-topped bar. The brilliant Knight is back, after traveling in Italy and writing a cookbook, One: A Cook and Her Cupboard (Saltyard Books). She’ll tap the nearby market to create British bites (braised lettuce, cockles, and bacon) as well as Italian dishes such as gnudi with lardo and walnuts. Best of all: this time, they’re taking reservations (at lunch and for large dinner groups). That’s the sound of Londoners—and the rest of us—rejoicing.
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