Beyond the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock, we love the Italian Synagogue, an 18th-century structure brought to the city from Italy. Now there's also more to see at night, thanks to a 22-site illumination project completed last year.CULTURE/ARTS
Museums can keep you busy for days. For a peek into two worlds, visit the Islamic Museum and then the Old Yishuv CourtMuseum, which chronicles Jewish life in the Old City. This Week in Jerusalem has the best guide to exhibitions.RESTAURANTS/FOOD
Amazing produce, especially tomatoes, cucumbers, dates, and oranges. Street vendors in the Old City sell zahtar-topped bagels hot from the oven (one feeds two, easily). Go to Taverna to dine with views of the desert.PEOPLE
Native-born Israelis are known as sabras (prickly pears), because they're sharp on the outside but sweet within.SHOPPING
Tel Aviv's better, but there are good handicrafts in the Cardo and the Arab Market. Judaica is on King David Street. Kids love Mr. T's, a treasure trove of T-shirts with Hebrew slogans.VALUE
In the wake of 25 recent hotel closings countrywide, those left are now offering specials. At the King David Hotel this winter, pay for a single and stay in a double room.