If the famed Recoleta cemetery, with its Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque mausoleums, isn't lively enough for you, catch a soccer match between rival home teams River Plate and Boca Juniors (buy a good seat to avoid excessive rowdiness).CULTURE/ARTS
You can't leave without seeing—and dancing—the tango at El Viejo Almacén or El Querandi, both in San Telmo. The Teatro Colón has world-class opera and ballet, plus a great backstage tour that's conducted twice daily in English.RESTAURANTS/FOOD
This is beef country—try Cabaña Las Lilas, on the Puerto Madero waterfront. Treat yourself to fabulous dulce de leche every chance you get (it's great for breakfast); the best brand is La Salamandra.PEOPLE
A mix of European and Latin influences make this a fashionable city. Women are faultlessly elegant, and any man in sneakers is most likely a foreigner.SHOPPING
Silver put the Argent in Argentina, so naturally it's exceptional: Visit master smith Juan Carlos Pallarols in San Telmo. Even if you don't buy a buckle, the workshop tour is worth it.VALUE
Super-soft leather from the carpincho (a sort of tail-less beaver) is a local bargain. On the other hand, car rentals are pricey, and gas is $4 a gallon, so use taxis to get around.