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The Peruvian Amazon

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There are few stretches of rain forest as untouched as southeastern Peru's. Fair warning: a trip to these parts, while extremely memorable, is arduous—there's not much hammock time built into the schedule. It's ideal for rugged sorts, ages eight and up. You can get a satisfying look at the jungle in two days (plus travel time); allow four days, as we did, if you want to get to the Tambopata Research Center (see below) and the richest stretches of rain forest.

WHEN TO GO

May through October is dry and cool (typically in the 80's); November through April is steamy and given to downpours. Lodges are open year-round; we visited in late November and thoroughly enjoyed the dramatic weather, if not the humidity and the need to protect ourselves against mosquitos.

GETTING THERE

Lan Chile, American, Delta, and Continental all have direct flights to Lima. From there, connect on Lan Peru or Aerocondor to Puerto Maldonado, where your lodge will provide you with a guide who will escort you up the Tambopata River.

PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE

A yellow-fever inoculation—with a certificate to present to Puerto Maldonado airport officials—is strongly recommended. Diphtheria/tetanus, typhoid, and hepatitis A vaccines are recommended. Some visitors also take antimalarials; most simply cover up and apply insect repellent containing at least 30 percent deet. During a short stay, the risk of malaria is low—but one worth discussing with your doctor. For our kids, the shots weren't as much of an ordeal as we'd feared.

WHERE TO STAY

Rainforest Expeditions
The company operates three well-designed cane eco-lodges—Posada Amazonas, Tambopata Research Center, and the new Refugio Amazonas—each several hours from the other along the Tambopata River and devoted to leading guests on jungle outings in small guided groups. (The easiest to reach, Posada Amazonas, requires a 45-minute bus ride and an hour in a motorized canoe.) Meals are home-style Peruvian fare—chicken stews, tomato salad, flan, fresh tropical juices—all simple enough that even our kids ate well. 877/870-0578; perunature.com; three-day minimum, from $205 per person, including all meals, activities, and transfers.

Explorer's Inn
A well-established lodge-and-research station, with an extensive network of trails and bird-watching blinds (viewing enclosures), located three hours up the Tambopata from Puerto Maldonado. 51-14/478-888; explorersinn.com; two-night minimum, from $180 per person, including all meals, activities, and transfers.

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica
Forty-five minutes by boat directly from Puerto Maldonado, this lodge is more accessible and luxurious than the others in the area, but the surrounding jungle is tamer. Guests stay in individual bungalows, and there's a spectacular treetop canopy walk. 800/442-5042; inkaterra.com; two-night minimum, from $245 per person, including all meals, activities, and transfers.

Wasai Maldonado Lodge
A rustic place in Puerto Maldonado, with basic rooms and a pretty outdoor breakfast area. We began and ended our journey here. 51-14/368-792; wasai.com; doubles from $48, including breakfast.

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