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New Year's around the globe, top ice rinks, holiday reflections, great movie theaters, and more.
Snow and skiing aren't everything at this Alpine winter wonderland. At night, Arosa comes alive with a vibrant club scene and—who knew?—one of Europe's funniest festivals.
WHERE TO STAY There always seems to be a party at the Hotel Eden Arosa. DJ's spin into the night at the underground Kitchen Club while guest rooms employ tongue-in-cheek themes (wild stripes in Tiger Lily, jazzy patterns in the Blue Note). The 133-room Tschuggen Grand Hotel is more sedate but doesn't skimp on style. Make time for afternoon tea in the ornate lobby. Hotel Seehof uses rustic-chic touches such as animal-print banquettes and deer heads on the walls to enliven its somewhat rarefied atmosphere. SAY CHEESE Dig into raclette and other traditional Swiss fare at Restaurant Burestübli. ALL-TIME HIGH No matter if you're a black-diamond skier or an inexperienced snow bunny, you'll want to take a cable car or gondola to the peak of the Weisshorn, the immense 8,694-foot mountain that towers over Arosa. Bring your camera: once at the summit, you'll have 360-degree views of the Alps. YOU CRACK ME UP Switzerland is famous for chocolate, cheese—and stand-up comedy? Strange but true—the quaint village plays host to funny folk at the Arosa Humor-Festival each December, when comedians from around the world gather in a tent at the base of the Weisshorn for 10 days of laughs.
—Thomas Fierro
Get in touch with your inner Michelle Kwan at these ice rinks around the globe.
Downtown on Ice, Los Angeles
No hat or gloves needed here. A central Pershing Square location lets Angelenos enjoy both mild winters and outdoor skating—surrounded by palm trees (818/243-6488; www.laparks.org; open November 20-January 19; admission $7, skate rental $2).
Depot Rink, Minneapolis
Set inside a restored 105-year-old train station, this grand indoor rink has a soaring canopy roof and floor-to-ceiling windows with terrific city views. But watch out: hockey-loving locals set a brisk pace (612/375-1700; www.thedepotminneapolis.com; open November 16-March; admission $7, skate rental $6).
Bonsecours Basin, Montreal
Underground refrigeration units at Bonsecours cool the ice and lengthen the skating season. When the weather turns frigid, the rink expands with surrounding natural ice, making room for skaters of all levels (514/496-7678; www.oldportofmontreal.com; open December 6-mid-March; admission $2.20, or free with $3.70 skate rental).
Lasker Rink, New York City
In-the-know skaters skip Rockefeller Plaza in favor of this trim oval in the craggy hills of Central Park's northern reaches. Here wobbly urbanites test their edges to hip-hop and R&B (212/534-7639; www.centralparknyc.org; open November-March; admission $4.50, skate rental $4.75).
Somerset House, London
You can't skate on the Thames itself, but you can glide right alongside it in the courtyard of these majestic 18th-century offices (44-207/845-4600; www.somerset-house.org.uk/icerink; open November 27-January 25; admission $15-$17, including skates).
—Amy Farley
This mountain town serves up an old-fashioned holiday without all that Aspen attitude. Explore Pueblo dwellings, take a brisk ski run down the slopes, or just curl up with a rum toddy in a true Western saloon.
WHERE TO STAY The Rochester Hotel pays homage to Durango's cinematic past: each of the 15 rooms recalls a locally produced movie, from the Mexican-themed Viva Zapata suite to a Euro-style room called Around the World in Eighty Days. A favorite stop of bawdy miners and madams back in the 1890's, the grandly restored Strater Hotel houses the Diamond Belle Saloon, Louis L'Amour's preferred watering hole (several of his novels were written in the rooms above). CHOW TIME Plan a Christmas Eve feast at Ken and Sue's, an easygoing bistro. Try the grilled pork medallions wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon with a molasses-cabernet sauce. COWBOY COUTURE In Durango, anyone can look good wearing a cowboy hat. O'Farrell Hats Direct custom-crafts the best in the West; look for the wide-brimmed Silvertons, a town favorite. ALL ABOARD Take the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad for a five-hour excursion—in a heated coach, of course—through rugged Cascade Canyon. You'll chug past snow-caked evergreens, alongside the ice-choked Animas River, and up hair-raising inclines, on a train that's been in continuous operation since 1881.
—Andrew Collins
Not all turkeys are created equal. Seek out something different in your holiday travels with these better-than-Butterball options.
Deep-Fried Turkey This Southern treat tastes as sinful as it sounds. Line up for crispy turkeys on the Thanksgiving buffet at Georgia Brown's in Washington, D.C. (950 15th St. NW; 202/393-4499; dinner for two $70). Fried-to-order fowl are also available from the Cajun Turkey Co. in Dallas (800/809-7881; www.cajunturkeyco.com; 10- to 12-lb. turkey, $49.95).
Smoked Turkey At Clark's Outpost in Tioga, Texas (101 Hwy. 377; 940/437-2414; dinner for two $30), the turkey is cured for 24 hours, then slowly smoked. Or orderfrom Stegall Smoked Turkey in Marshville, N.C. (704/624-6628; www.stegallsmokedturkey.com; 10-to 11-lb. turkey, $42.95).
Tofurky This tofu creation from Turtle Island Foods in Hood River, Oregon, has more meaty flavor than you'd expect from mere soybeans (800/695-2241; www.tofurky.com; one feast with drumettes and wish sticks $45.95).
Traditional Turkeys If your family insists on a classic roaster, seek out a free-range or organic bird for optimum flavor. Two of the best sources: Lobel's of New York (877/783-4512; www.lobels.com; 10- to 12-lb. free-range turkey, $58.98) and D'Artagnan (800/327-8246; www.dartagnan.com; organic turkeys from $70).
Turducken The surprisingly tasty turducken resembles a Russian nesting doll—a chicken inside a duck inside a turkey, each layer coated with cornbread or sausage dressing. Order from Pfaelzer Bros. in Maumee, Ohio (800/621-0202; www.pfaelzerbrothers.com; 15-lb. turducken, $109.95).
—Melissa Clark
For Frank DeCaro, Christmas is all about bionic Santas, robotic reindeer, and an over-the-top New Jersey fantasyland called Fountains of Wayne
Hauling out the holly starts each year—at least for anyone who has ever spent time in the area of northern New Jersey now euphemized as Sopranoland—with a pilgrimage to Fountains of Wayne. I'm not talking about the band that was all over MTV this past summer, but the store, whose tinsel has been stuck in the carpet behind my TV since last winter. Located about 20 miles northwest of midtown Manhattan, just past the Home Depot but not quite as far as the Division of Motor Vehicles, Fountains of Wayne is our own Miracle on Route 46 (491 Rte. 46 W., to be exact; you can ring them up at 973/256-1552). The 21,000-square-foot store sells lawn ornaments—birdbaths, statues, and, yes, fountains—10 months a year, feeding a regional need for outdoor accoutrements that resemble Villa d'Este by way of the Olive Garden. But the store's biggest draw is its annual Christmas display, which delights 100,000 visitors from all over the country each holiday season.
Since the mid 1960's, the store has trafficked in colorful ornaments, twinkling light sets, plush silver garlands, and artificial trees, in addition to patio accessories. Typical customers are families like mine: Italian-Americans whose taste in holiday décor makes Donatella Versace look like June Cleaver; ebullient people who eat seven kinds of fish on Christmas Eve and then run off to midnight Mass at Holy Angels.
Each November, a statue of Santa two stories high goes up out front, and from Fountains springs a winter wonderland—a free, walk-through diorama with hundreds of animated figures that wave, wink, and do everything but Watusi. This Disneyesque spectacle—I like to think of it as "It's a Smaller World"—gives visitors a peek at what Kris Kringle does in the off-season. The store turns glitter, cotton batting, plastic plants, and imagination into such offbeat holiday visions as Santa's Hawaiian luau; Santa as an Elvis impersonator, clad in gold lamé; and a deep-sea Santa in a diving bell.
"Between the labor of setting up the displays and the electricity of running them, it gets expensive," admits Brian Winters, whose dad, Donald, bought Fountains in 1961. But he doesn't mind. "It generates tremendous goodwill and it brings lots of people who wouldn't come otherwise into the store."
People like me come to Fountains not for the idealized retro-forties Christmas of Christopher Radko ornaments or the three-foot Victorian feather trees for which the Martha Stewart catalogue asks $400 apiece. I adore those refined decorations from eras I'll never know except through books and movies. But I can't celebrate Christmas without a little nostalgia for my own less-than-tasteful youth (bottle-brush trees and light-up plastic Nativity sets were all the rage back in the 1960's and 70's).
Fountains makes me happy because not much has changed at the store since then. A friend from grade school still works there, her fingers flying over the cash register keys without ever chipping an appliquéd nail. My late mother's favorite waitress at the Versailles diner over in Fairfield still moonlights there, primping trees without mussing a hair on her lacquered head.
There is something about the place that is "distinctive," as Adam Schlesinger, cofounder of Fountains of Wayne (the band), put it recently—something distinctively New Jersey. The store is so much a part of the local scene that it has been featured on The Sopranos. But I really didn't need to see Fountains of Wayne on TV to know it was special. The place is my childhood, shellacked for posterity, like the Three Wise Men plaques we made in Cub Scouts using pasta shells, corrugated cardboard, and gold spray paint.
For those of us who grew up shopping at stores like Two Guys from Garfield, Park 'n Shop, and Great Eastern Mills—all gone now to make way for big-box national chain stores—the holidays wouldn't be the holidays without a visit to Fountains of Wayne. Well, actually two visits. You have to go back the day after Christmas. Their wonderful diorama is closed, but everything in the store is marked down 50 percent.
That, of course, is a tradition, too.
FRANK DECARO, the author of A Boy Named Phyllis, lives in Manhattan but always spends Christmas in his hometown of Little Falls, New Jersey.
Christmastime may be damp and foggy, but with the hordes long gone, service is relaxed and friendly, and, at night, you may have the moonlit Piazza San Marco all to yourself.
WHERE TO STAY The Palazzo Vendramin and the Palazzetto, two opulent annexes of the otherwise-closed Hotel Cipriani, are available during the holidays, and the staff is sure to fuss over you. For a more intimate experience, consider Ca' Pisani, a boutique hotel with a vaguely futuristic look. MANGIA Italians have their big feast on the 24th. At Do Forni, indulge in spider crab tortelloni with lobster sauce or saddle of lamb stuffed with Alba white truffles. On Christmas Day, many family-run places close, so stick with the hotels. De Pisis at the Hotel Bauet riffs on traditional fare: capon stuffed with chestnuts and black truffles and a panettone soufflé. REASON FOR THE SEASON The midnight Mass at Basilica di San Marco is standing-room only, so arrive by 11 p.m. As worshippers file in, a choir and candles set the mood; at the stroke of midnight, the music swells and the lights come on, illuminating the ceiling's stunning 13th- and 14th-century gold mosaics. SHOP TILL YOU DROP Sift through piles of antique glass beads at Anticlea Antiquariato behind the San Marco cathedral—the shop also carries old Murano chandeliers and vintage jewelry. Around the corner, Ca' del Sol has a wide selection of handcrafted masks for New Year's balls, from simple and jokey to exquisitely beaded and feathered.
—Peter J. Frank
Last year, more than 95 million Americans went to the movies in November and December. Here, five cinemas screening great holiday flicks.
Richmond, Va. Relive the early days of the silver screen in November with Wings (1927), the first movie to win the Academy Award for Best Picture. On December 24, the Byrd Theatre celebrates its 75th anniversary with It's a Wonderful Life (2908 West Cary St.; 804/353-9911).
Baltimore, Md. Bring at least $3 worth of canned goods to the Maryland Food Bank benefit, in early December, at the Senator Theatre—John Waters's childhood cinema—and you'll get in to see A Christmas Carol and It's a Wonderful Life, playing throughout the day (5904 York Rd.; 410/435-8338).
Chicago Between December 19 and 24, moviegoers come dressed as Christmas trees and reindeer for a double bill of It's a Wonderful Life and White Christmas with Bing Crosby (Music Box Theatre, 3733 N. Southport Ave.; 773/871-6604).
San Francisco Need a break from angels getting their wings? On December 25, the Castro Theatre begins a one-week run of Modern Times, Charlie Chaplin's last silent picture from 1936 (429 Castro St., San Francisco; 415/621-6120).
Hollywood The last remaining silent cinema in North America plays only one talkie a year: It's a Wonderful Life (of course), on December 26 and 27. A giant 1920's-style affair with films starring Buster Keaton and Clara Bow is held on New Year's Eve (Silent Movie Theatre, 611 N. Fairfax Ave.; 323/655-2520).
—Jaime Gross
Times Square? Been there, done that. Resolve to celebrate differently with these novel year-end parties.
Philadelphia At the century-old Mummers Day Parade, some 25,000 clowns and musicians—bedecked in delightfully gaudy, glittering costumes—march for hours through downtown Philly on New Year's Day.
Salvador, Bahia, Brazil During reveillon, Bahianos gather on the beaches of Salvador to honor Iemanjá, the goddess of water in the Afro-Brazilian religion candomblé. There's drumming and dancing all night; at midnight, revelers hop over seven waves for good luck in the coming year.
Edinburgh Hogmanay (the Scottish New Year) is celebrated throughout the country, but the biggest festival is in Edinburgh, where 100,000 people pack the streets. The fearless scare away their hangovers the next morning with a plunge into the icy waters of the Firth of Forth, an estuary eight miles east of the city.
Kyoto, Japan Ring in the New Year—literally. At midnight on December 31, many of the city's 1,600 temples light bonfires and toll copper bells 108 times (in Buddhist belief, the number of human sins).
Sydney Be among the first in the world to see 2004. More than a million people head to the harbor for a fireworks display over and around the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
—J.G.
Sin City tries hard to pretend that Christmas is a day like any other, so great shopping continues up to the last minute. If you squint, you can almost see the Three Wise Men out in the desert—or is that Frank, Dino, and Sammy?
WHERE TO STAY Old-school charm mixes with postmillennial theatrics at Caesars Palace, which means you can unwind at a Roman spa after experiencing Celine Dion's eye-popping concert. The Palms Casino Resort is much more low-key than hotels on the Strip—you can actually walk to your room without having to cross the casino. THE ART OF DINING Chef Julian Serrano creates a sublime four-course Christmas repast at Picasso in the Bellagio: poached oysters with osetra caviar; sautéed foie gras with confit of quince; roast breast of pheasant with pears; and rich chocolate fondant for dessert. TOP SHOPS Beyond the chintzy reproductions at Ancient Creations are real artifacts such as Assyrian terra-cotta heads and Roman dice from the first century b.c. Grammy's Art of Music has limited-edition lithographs by David Bowie, John Entwistle, and Grace Slick, plus electric guitars signed by Eddie Van Halen and the king of Vegas himself, Elvis. IT'S NOT A MIRAGE After sunset, drive out to Ethel M Chocolate Factory & Cactus Garden in Henderson. Skip the self-guided tour of the chocolate factory to revel in the surreal beauty of cacti dripping with more than 250,000 twinkling lights. GREEN CHRISTMAS The ace horticultural staff at Bellagio's botanical gardens dresses a huge indoor Christmas tree with gargantuan ornaments and zillions of flowers.
—Leslie Brenner
After decades of rescuing greenhorn cooks from culinary crises, Francine Maroukian revels in a gracious invite and a quiet holiday
During my 20 years as a New York-based private caterer, I was often called upon by friends and acquaintances when culinary disaster struck, and never more so than when those amateurs decided to throw that once-a-year holiday party. In places as far away as London and as near as Darien, Connecticut, someone would pick up the phone and, suddenly, I was talking otherwise sane folks down from the country-ham ledge, or patiently explaining why turkey bacon and bacon bacon aren't remotely the same thing, especially when you're making boeuf bourguignon.
Later, when people called back to share their successes, I felt connected to each party as though I had packed up my immersion blender and hit the road, cooking my way across the country. There was the eggnog crème brûlée that wouldn't set in Los Angeles and the six-course, from-scratch Chinese dinner that left me holding a takeout menu in my hot-oil-splattered hands. But catering had also taught me that some people have deep psychological issues that I would never be able to solve with a perfect soufflé.I've spent decades guiding people through the Thanksgiving-to-New Year's minefield, a time when cooking something—anything—brings out the worst in even the most genial people.
One Christmas Eve in Boston, I found myself in a spartan, expensive home right out of Woody Allen's 1978 film, Interiors (chilly rooms, icy people). The hostess announced that she would be in the kitchen carving the rib roast; after almost 15 minutes, she hadn't reappeared. Her husband, busy holding court at the head of the table, turned to me with a big gin grin: "Find out what is taking her so long." What I discovered shocked even me. There, on the distressed Italian blue-pearl granite counter, that austerely chic woman was furiously cutting any trace of fat from each slice of meat. It was roast rage: she was willing to buy it and even cook it, but she'd be damned if she'd let anyone enjoy it.
It was then and there that I understood the Zen of entertaining: Give a party only if you really want to have a party. I experienced this principle firsthand when I accepted a Christmas dinner invitation in Beaufort, South Carolina. When I was catering, I could rarely make holiday plans that required advance travel arrangements (well, I could make them; I just never knew if I could keep them). This was my first free year, and I was excited to actually be going somewhere instead of just manning the emergency hotline and imagining myself at other people's parties. I surrendered my itinerary to my hostess, Suzanne Williamson Pollak, the author of Entertaining for Dummies (who is also currently working with novelist Pat Conroy on a cookbook memoir). She planned every detail of the trip with my comfort in mind.
The travel dates she suggested meant that I would arrive after noon on December 25, thereby allowing her to enjoy the intimacy of Christmas morning with her family and freeing me to spend Christmas Eve where I always did—at home in New York. Surprisingly, flying on Christmas morning was much more relaxing than I ever thought it could be. Without the crazed December 24-or-bust crowds, the airport was manageable and almost exciting, like something out of the 1950's, when flying was an event.
Not long after my arrival, Suzanne and I began making pasta. This was not the usual frantic transfer of responsibility from an unskilled hostess to me. The work took the form of soothing repetitive motions, rather than being a stressful task. Occasionally the doorbell would ring and she would ask me to answer it, as though I belonged there and was not just perched on the edge of her family's life. By the time the duck lasagna was in the oven and the other guests had arrived, I felt as though I were part of the family.
When I got back to New York, I found a small tin of handmade truffles tucked in my bag along with a note: WE LOVED HAVING YOU. THANKS FOR COMING. Now that's hospitality.
FRANCINE MAROUKIAN is the author of Town & Country Elegant Entertaining.
The holidays here come in a thousand shades of green (the emerald La Ceiba jungle) and blue (the teal waters of the Caribbean, where Saint Nick arrives by surfboard in red-and-white trunks).
WHERE TO STAY Terra-cotta-tiled rooms ring the pool at Hotel Marina Copán in Copán Ruinas, a hill townjust east of the Guatemala border. Pocket-sized nooks—perfect for impromptu privacy—are hidden throughout the property. DINNER TO GO On December 24, families travel from house to house, sharing traditional meals of tamales and eggnog until midnight. At the Lodge at Pico Bonito, a luxury outpost in La Ceiba, Julie Lafitte prepares succulent pork and chicken tamales. FLOAT LIKE A BUTTERFLY Pico Bonito's on-site butterfly farm breeds more than 40 varieties of the colorful winged insect; lepidopterists offer free tours to lodge guests. GREAT GIFTS Intricately carved mahogany screens, dining tables, rocking chairs, and other furniture crafted by native artisans can be shipped home by Imapro, a local manufacturer. COFFEE TALK Intense, smoky coffee beans from the high-altitude plantations outside La Ceiba are available duty-free at Honduran airports. DIVE IN Sign up for a beginner's scuba diving course at the Anthony's Key Resort on Roatán island. In three days, novices learn to plummet to 80 feet for views of shipwrecks and one of the world's finest coral reefs. TIME TRAVEL Explore towering carved stelae, a hieroglyphic-adorned stairway, and newly excavated tunnels at Copán, a well-preserved eighth-century city and UNESCO heritage site considered the Athens of Mayan civilization for its advances in art and astronomy. Tour company Hedman Alas runs shuttle buses to the town of Copán Ruinas daily.
—Heidi S. Mitchell
You've made your list, checked it twice, but you still haven't found the perfect present? These seasonal markets offer gifts found nowhere else.
Bethlehem, Pennsylvania One visit to this annual winter market shows why the Pennsylvania town calls itself Christmas City U.S.A. More than 175 craftsmen sell ornaments, jewelry, pottery, and original stained glass under the heated tents of the Christkindlmarkt. After a walk through a forest of decorated trees, listen to performances by the von Trapp singers—the great-grandchildren of the family immortalized in The Sound of Music. (November 28 through December 21; 610/332-3378; www.christkindlmarkt.org)
Aubagne, France This town eight miles east of Marseilles specializes in santons, colorful clay figurines that depict the people and activities of Provence. Its Santon Fair displays thousands of the "little saints," from a shepherd with his flock and an old-time dairymaid to modern card players, jewelers, and lavender sellers; you can also buy embroidery, stoneware, and traditional Provençal desserts such as pompe a l'huile, a bread made with olive oil and orange zest. (November 22 through December 31; www.aubagne.com)
Dresden, Germany More than 60 exhibitors gather at Altmarkt Square for the Striezelmarkt—Germany's oldest Christmas market, dating to 1434—to display porcelain, handblown glass, and wooden nutcrackers. Satisfy your sweet tooth with Dresdener Stollen, the classic spice cake with almonds and raisins, or pflaumentoffel, prune candies shaped like people. (November 27 through December 24; www.dresden.de)
—Cheryl Brody
Eggnog and wassail bowls are so 1897. Mix things up with one of these seasonal cocktails.
Blushing Reindeer
Fresh strawberries, white and dark rum, grenadine, triple sec, and lemon juice, blended with crushed ice. WHERE At the secluded Westcliff hotel, outside Johannesburg (67 Jan Smuts Ave.; 27-11/646-2400; www.orient-express.com; $4.75). WHY Strawberries are in season— at least in the southern hemisphere.
Glögg
Sweden's favorite winter warmer mixes hot mulled wine with raisins, almonds, cardamom, and other spices. WHERE At the Leijontornet restaurant in Stockholm's Victory Hotel (5 Lilla Nygatan; 46-8/5064-0000; www.relaischateaux.com; $4.40). WHY Because baby, it's cold outside.
Poinsettia
Champagne, triple sec, and a splash of cranberry juice. WHERE The Red Room at the Connaught hotel in London (16 Carlos Place, Mayfair; 44-207/499-7070; www.savoy-group.co.uk; $15). WHY In such a glamorous setting, only champagne will do.
Smuggler
Frothy hot chocolate spiked with peppermint schnapps. WHERE The Living Room of Aspen's Little Nell (675 E. Durant Ave.; 970/920-4600; www.thelittlenell.com; $8), with cinematic mountain views.WHY When the après is this tempting, it's easy to skip the ski.
White Christmas
A sweet blend of Stoli Vanil, Godiva white-chocolate liqueur, and peppermint schnapps. WHERE The charmingly old-school Oak Bar in Boston's Fairmont Copley Plaza (138 St. James Ave.; 617/267-5300; www.fairmont.com; $16). WHY This, not snow, is what Bing Crosby was singing about.
—Peter Jon Lindberg
Do the time warp in a desert oasis where the 1950's never went out of style. For warm days and way cool nights, there's no place like California's Mid-Century Modern capital in winter.
WHERE TO STAY Pieces by Eames, Paulin, Risom, and other mod masters fill the sleek rooms at Orbit In's Hideaway. Whip up a drink from your own wet bar (stocked with vintage Melmac dishware), and stroll out to the pool for unbeatable views of the San Jacinto Mountains. SMART FOOD The menu at the stylish Johannes tempts with exotic offerings such as meatballs in kaffir-lime sauce and chilled apple-and-pear soup infused with curry. But it's Austrian chef/owner Johannes Bacher's signature Wiener schnitzel that has scores of hungry diners waiting in the street for an open table. THAT'S ENTERTAINMENT Old showgirls never die, they just kick up their heels in Palm Springs. At the Fabulous Palm Springs Follies, an extravagant musical revue now in its 13th year, no performer is younger than 56 (a handful are even in their seventies and eighties). Don't let their ages fool you, though: these leggy lovelies are as limber and energetic as any Rockette, and their lavish costumes would have made Liberace green with envy. OBJECT LESSONS If you don't know your Breuer from your Bertoia, consult the extensive collection of interior and architecture books at Sublime, a quirky shop that also sells funky handmade martini glasses and CD's from Shirley Bassey and Sinatra. Once you've done your homework, pick up Knoll sofas and Barcelona chairs at ModernWay, where owner Courtney Newman carefully selects furniture designs from the 1940's through the 1970's.
—H. Scott Jolley
Warm yourself with aged sherry, in clouds of incense at a midnight Mass, with the rich broth of a stew, or by celebrating three holidays that take place over 12 days: Christmas, New Year's, and a grand finale on January 6.
WHERE TO STAY The color scheme at the Bauzá—cool mauve, cream, and gray—lends a quiet sophistication to this Salamanca-district hotel. The exceptional staff can guide you through any number of decisions, from what book to read in the well-stocked library to which pillow will give you the best night's rest. SOUP'S ON Winter Sundays, much of Madrid seeks a hearty midday meal. Skip appetizers—and maybe breakfast—in favor of cocido madrileño, a stew served in three heady, garlicky courses at La Bola Taberna. STRING ALONG One of Spain's oldest workshops, Conde Hermanos, sells excellent handmade guitars; cedar-and-rosewood models start at $1,750. SUGAR RUSH One taste of the pastries and cookies from La Duquesita and you'll see why director Pedro Almodóvar calls this his favorite sweetshop. Choose one of the turrones, blocks of flavored nougat from a recipe dating back to the 14th century (the almond-and-caramel guirlache is especially good) or try the elaborate, serpent-shaped anguilla, made of marzipan and studded with candied fruit. REASON FOR THE SEASON Work your way through the crowds at the Basílica de San Miguel for Baroque splendor—incense, choirs, cherubim—during midnight Mass on December 24. LOCAL TRADITION Join the throng in the Puerta del Sol on New Year's Eve and swallow 12 grapes—a custom devised by vineyard owners to deal with bumper crops of fruit—one with each chime of the bell.
—Yossi Langer
No matter what you call him—or where you are—old Santa Claus will still find his way to you on Christmas Eve.
China Christians here celebrate the holiday by lighting paper lanterns and awaiting a visit from Dun Che Lao Ren,or "Christmas Old Man."
Czech Republic Svaty Mikulas climbs down from heaven on a golden rope along with an angel—and a devil who brandishes a whip.
Denmark Julemanden arrives in a sleigh pulled by reindeer. His elf helpers are often greeted with a bowl of rice pudding instead of cookies.
England Children throw their wish lists into the fireplace so the draft can carry them to Father Christmas.
France Jolly Père Noël is assisted by the stern Père Fouettard (Father Spanker), who tells him whether a child has been naughty or nice.
Germany Letters requesting gifts are left on windowsills for the Christkindl, a winged figure in white robes with a crown of candles who is believed to be the messenger of the Christ Child.
Holland Sinter Klaas arrives from Spain via steamship, accompanied by Black Pete, a shipmate who helps hand out presents to good boys and girls.
Italy An old woman named La Befana brings candies to well-behaved children and coal to mischievous ones (according to legend, La Befana lost her own son and now wanders the globe giving gifts to all kids).
Spain Youngsters anticipate a visit from Los Reyes Magos, or the Three Wise Men, by setting out sweets for the men and water for their camels.
Russia Saint Nicholas presides over the holiday, but under Communism he was Grandfather Frost, and delivered presents in a blue outfit.
—C.B.
Toasting the New Year on a European sleeper car, Gini Alhadeff gets a crash course in class boundaries, royal treatment, and movie-star secrets
One New Year's Eve I boarded a night train from Florence to Geneva, where friends had invited me to stay. The senior uniformed conductor inquired discreetly whether I would drink a glass of champagne with him at midnight. Naturally, I accepted. At 11:55 p.m., he came to fetch me.
His name was Enrico. "Piacere," he said as we shook hands. Did I mind if we included Flavio, his colleague? Flavio's wife, who often traveled with him, had already gone to sleep.
We met in a compartment with three green velvet seats, side by side. I sat near the door, Flavio by the window, while Enrico remained standing. Flavio had a bottle of sparkling wine, to be opened precisely at midnight. Enrico, watch in hand, called out the seconds remaining: "Dodici, undici, dieci..." The cork popped as he announced, "Zero!"
"I must kiss the signorina now," Enrico said. He came over and kissed me ceremoniously on both cheeks. "This is the wonderful aspect of our job," he went on as he loosened up. "Here we are, everything and nothing. You could be the presidentessa of America and we could be talking to you like this."
"Passengers have changed," Flavio said. Enrico agreed. "Often when I bring coffee to women in the morning, they are in déshabillé. I know they don't consider me a real man at that moment. I am no one, just the man who brings the coffee. But the way I find them in the morning tells me everything about them. Some are so full of frills and furs and jewels by night; in the morning you see that their underwear is torn."
"It is a wonderful job we have," Flavio sighed, "but I'm retiring next year. After us, it's finished. You see, we are proud to be working on the wagons-lits. The young ones don't even look you in the face. They just do their job."
My glass was filled again. Enrico looked at me. "I told Flavio I had got the best one on the train. When I saw you board, I thought, I'm keeping this one." He shook his head and continued. "Once a beautiful French model came on. I thought, I could never afford to have a woman like that. She showed me her lingerie—really elegant, delicate lingerie. I thought, I could never get a woman like that...but what do you know? Tac." He smiled mischievously, making a sound like a mousetrap snapping shut.
"We've seen many actors. Once I went into a compartment and found a pile of money this high," Enrico said, holding his hand a few feet above the floor. "I put it away. Later Orson Welles comes by and says, 'Did you find a pile of money here?' I say yes; he says it's his. I think, Is he mad to leave all that money lying around? He says he just wanted to see if I was honest."
The compartment had become a cozy universe by now. Enrico lit a cigarette with a silver lighter. He might as well have been wearing a silk dressing gown and standing by a stately fireplace. "There was an emir from Saudi Arabia who came on with seven wives," Enrico said. "He slept in one compartment and all seven wives slept in another. The emir's bodyguard had a crush on me. He offered me a handful of money if I would agree to sleep with him. I told him I'd rather sleep with one of the seven wives!"
Flavio was tired, so I bade him good night. Enrico walked me back to my compartment. "See you in the morning," he said.
His knock on the door woke me at seven. Enrico came in quietly, deposited an espresso by the sink, and left. I washed, dressed, and went out into the corridor. There he was. "I looked at your passport this morning when we reached the French frontier," he said. "I first thought you were a girl, but when I saw your age I said to myself, I could have tried."
I asked how many languages he spoke. He said French, Spanish, German. "Even German?" I asked, surprised.
"Yes," Enrico said, "I learned it in Auschwitz. That's where I learned to survive. Some people complain even when they have everything."
Suddenly the loudspeaker announced that we were about to arrive in Geneva. "Well," Enrico shook my hand vigorously, "I have to go. The espresso is 2,750 lire. You can give me exact change, or you can leave me a nice tip."
GINI ALHADEFF is a contributing editor for Travel + Leisure and the author of a novel, Diary of a Djinn (Pantheon).
A little advance planning can alleviate frustration and long lines at the airport.
Flying Obvious but true: Avoid travel on peak days. For Thanksgiving, "peak" includes the Wednesday before and the Sunday after. And this season, with Christmas falling on a Thursday, the two days before the holiday and the weekend after are expected to be tight. You'll encounter the lightest lines by traveling on Thanksgiving or Christmas day (although you run the risk of plan-blowing delays or cancellations). Don't apply the day-of rule for New Year's, however, as travel picks up again on January 1. Diana Cronan of the Air Transport Association notes that air travel is often lighter by Christmas Eve, and you should be able to beat the pack by flying the Monday before or after.
Driving Hitting the road on peak travel days? Steer clear of routes that feed into airports, says Jerry Cheske of AAA. And factor in extra time for delays from parade traffic or football-game crowds if you're driving on the holiday itself.
Trains If you buy an Amtrak ticket in advance, carry a government-issued ID just in case (technically, you're not required to show one when boarding). If you purchase your ticket at a train station, however, you must show a government-issued ID.
Packing Don't carry gift-wrapped packages on planes. If you must travel with presents, keep them in their original packaging and wrap them at your destination. Any items that might raise eyebrows at security check-points—a Pirates of the Caribbean toy sword or a lacrosse stick, for example—should not be packed in carry-on luggage. Ship gifts ahead of time instead.
—Barbara Benham
Spending the holidays inside the Beltway is a capital idea. D.C. is aglow this season, with lights on the White House Christmas tree and candles at Kennedy Center sing-alongs.
WHERE TO STAY 'Tis the season for the Hotel Rouge, where a Paint the Town Rouge holiday package includes an after-dark Hummer tour of District monuments. BIPARTISAN BRUNCH Review domestic policy over a global menu—Belgian waffles, dim sum—on Christmas Day when the Four Seasons Hotel in Georgetown holds its extremely popular jazz brunch (make sure to reserve in advance). Chef Michel Richard of Citronelle creates the coolest desserts in town: adorable meringue polar bears and snowmen. RAISE A GLASS Toast perestroika with herb-infused vodka shots at the opulent Russia House, or sample Virginia vintages among the Americana at 1789 Restaurant. I SPY THE PERFECT GIFT Infiltrate the International Spy Museum shop for top-secret CIA documents (shredded, of course), a night-vision monocular, and a mole puppet. GEORGE SLEPT HERE Meet the original "W" during evening tours of Mount Vernon, 16 miles from D.C. proper. Over hot cider and 18th-century music, discover how George and Martha Washington spent their holidays.
—Shane Mitchell
AROSA, SWITZERLAND
Hotel Eden Arosa 41-81/378-7100; www.edenarosa.ch; DOUBLES FROM $134
Tschuggen Grand Hotel 41-81/378-9999; www.tschuggen.ch; DOUBLES FROM $363
Hotel Seehof 41-81/377-1541; www.seehof-arosa.ch; DOUBLES FROM $138
Restaurant Burestübli 41-81/377-1838; DINNER FOR TWO $58
Arosa Humor-Festival www.humorfestival.ch; $25 PER PERFORMANCE
DURANGO, COLORADO
Rochester Hotel 726 E. Second Ave.; 800/664-1920 or 970/385-1920; www.rochesterhotel.com; DOUBLES FROM $109
Strater Hotel 699 Main Ave.; 800/247-4431 or 970/247-4431 www.strater.com; DOUBLES FROM $99
Ken & Sue's 636 Main Ave.; 970/259-2616; DINNER FOR TWO $60
O'Farrell Hats Direct 399 Camino Iglesia; 800/895-7098 or 970/259-5900
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad 479 Main Ave.; 970/259-3372; ADULTS FROM $54
HONDURAS
Hotel Marina Copán Copán Ruinas; 011-504/651-4070; www.hotelmarinacopan.com; DOUBLES FROM $85
Lodge at Pico Bonito La Ceiba; 888/428-0221 or 011-504/440-0388; www.picobonito.com; DINNER FOR TWO $50
Imapro Calle 1st between Avdas. 4 and 5 N.E., San Pedro Sula; 011-504/557-3355; www.imapro-honduras.com
Anthony's Key Resort 800/227-3483; www.anthonyskey.com. DIVING COURSES FROM $135 PER PERSON
Hedman Alas 011-504/651-4037; www.hedmanalas.com
LAS VEGAS
Caesars Palace 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 800/634-6661 or 702/731-7110; www.parkplace.com; DOUBLES FROM $129
Palms Casino Resort 4321 W. Flamingo Rd.; 866/942-7777 or 702/942-7777; www.palms.com; DOUBLES FROM $69
Picasso Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S. 702/693-7223; FOUR-COURSE PRIX FIXE DINNER FOR TWO $250
Ancient Creations Appian Way, Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/735-8846; www.ancientcreations.com
Grammy's Art of Music Desert Passage at the Aladdin Resort & Casino, 3663 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702/313-7664
Ethel M Chocolates Factory & Cactus Gardens 2 Cactus Garden Dr., Henderson, Nev. 702/433-2500
MADRID
Bauzá 79 Calle Goya; 34-91/435-7545; www.hotelbauza.com; DOUBLES FROM $140
La Bola Taberna 5 Calle La Bola; 34-91/547-6930; LUNCH FOR TWO $36
Conde Hermanos 2 Calle Felipe V; 34-91/547-0612
La Duquesita 2 Calle Fernando VI; 34-91/308-0231
Basílica de San Miguel 4 Calle San Justo; 34-91/548-4011
PALM SPRINGS
Orbit In's Hideaway 370 W. Arenas Rd.; 877/996-7248 or 760/323-3585; www.orbitin.com/hideaway; DOUBLES FROM $199
Johannes 196 S. Indian Canyon Dr.; 760/778-0017; DINNER FOR TWO $80
Fabulous Palm Springs Follies Plaza Theatre, 128 S. Palm Canyon Dr. 760/327-0225; www.psfollies.com; $39-$85
Sublime 402 N. Palm Canyon Dr.; 760/322-3266; www.sublimepalmsprings.com
ModernWay 2755 N. Palm Canyon Dr.; 760/320-5455; www.psmodernway.com
VENICE
Hotel Cipriani 10 Giudecca; 800/237-1236 or 39-041/520-7744; www.hotelcipriani.it; DOUBLES FROM $946
Ca' Pisani Rio Terà A. Foscarini 979A; 800/337-4685 or 39-041/240-1411; www.capisanihotel.it; DOUBLES FROM $226
Do Forni Calle dei Specchieri 468; 39-041/523-2148; DINNER FOR TWO $152
De Pisis Hotel Bauer, San Marco 1413D; 39-041/520-7022; DINNER FOR TWO $144
Basilica di San Marco Piazza San Marco; 39-041/522-5697
Anticlea Antiquariato Calle San Provolo 4719A; 39-041/528-6946
Ca' del Sol Fondamenta Osmarin 4964; 39-041/528-5549
WASHINGTON, D.C.
Hotel Rouge 1315 16th St. NW; 800/738-1202; www.rougehotel.com; DOUBLES FROM $239
Four Seasons Hotel 2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202/295-2700; BUFFET FOR TWO $136
Citronelle 3000 M St. NW; 202/625-2150; PRIX FIXE FOR TWO $150
Russia House 1800 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202/234-9433
1789 Restaurant 1226 36th Street NW; 202/965-1789
International Spy Museum 800 F St. NW; 202/393-7798
Mount Vernon 703/780-2000; www.mountvernon.org; ADMISSION $11
