Do the time warp in a desert oasis where the 1950's never went out of style. For warm days and way cool nights, there's no place like California's Mid-Century Modern capital in winter.
WHERE TO STAY Pieces by Eames, Paulin, Risom, and other mod masters fill the sleek rooms at Orbit In's Hideaway. Whip up a drink from your own wet bar (stocked with vintage Melmac dishware), and stroll out to the pool for unbeatable views of the San Jacinto Mountains. SMART FOOD The menu at the stylish Johannes tempts with exotic offerings such as meatballs in kaffir-lime sauce and chilled apple-and-pear soup infused with curry. But it's Austrian chef/owner Johannes Bacher's signature Wiener schnitzel that has scores of hungry diners waiting in the street for an open table. THAT'S ENTERTAINMENT Old showgirls never die, they just kick up their heels in Palm Springs. At the Fabulous Palm Springs Follies, an extravagant musical revue now in its 13th year, no performer is younger than 56 (a handful are even in their seventies and eighties). Don't let their ages fool you, though: these leggy lovelies are as limber and energetic as any Rockette, and their lavish costumes would have made Liberace green with envy. OBJECT LESSONS If you don't know your Breuer from your Bertoia, consult the extensive collection of interior and architecture books at Sublime, a quirky shop that also sells funky handmade martini glasses and CD's from Shirley Bassey and Sinatra. Once you've done your homework, pick up Knoll sofas and Barcelona chairs at ModernWay, where owner Courtney Newman carefully selects furniture designs from the 1940's through the 1970's.
—H. Scott Jolley
Warm yourself with aged sherry, in clouds of incense at a midnight Mass, with the rich broth of a stew, or by celebrating three holidays that take place over 12 days: Christmas, New Year's, and a grand finale on January 6.
WHERE TO STAY The color scheme at the Bauzá—cool mauve, cream, and gray—lends a quiet sophistication to this Salamanca-district hotel. The exceptional staff can guide you through any number of decisions, from what book to read in the well-stocked library to which pillow will give you the best night's rest. SOUP'S ON Winter Sundays, much of Madrid seeks a hearty midday meal. Skip appetizers—and maybe breakfast—in favor of cocido madrileño, a stew served in three heady, garlicky courses at La Bola Taberna. STRING ALONG One of Spain's oldest workshops, Conde Hermanos, sells excellent handmade guitars; cedar-and-rosewood models start at $1,750. SUGAR RUSH One taste of the pastries and cookies from La Duquesita and you'll see why director Pedro Almodóvar calls this his favorite sweetshop. Choose one of the turrones, blocks of flavored nougat from a recipe dating back to the 14th century (the almond-and-caramel guirlache is especially good) or try the elaborate, serpent-shaped anguilla, made of marzipan and studded with candied fruit. REASON FOR THE SEASON Work your way through the crowds at the Basílica de San Miguel for Baroque splendor—incense, choirs, cherubim—during midnight Mass on December 24. LOCAL TRADITION Join the throng in the Puerta del Sol on New Year's Eve and swallow 12 grapes—a custom devised by vineyard owners to deal with bumper crops of fruit—one with each chime of the bell.
—Yossi Langer
No matter what you call him—or where you are—old Santa Claus will still find his way to you on Christmas Eve.
China Christians here celebrate the holiday by lighting paper lanterns and awaiting a visit from Dun Che Lao Ren,or "Christmas Old Man."
Czech Republic Svaty Mikulas climbs down from heaven on a golden rope along with an angel—and a devil who brandishes a whip.
Denmark Julemanden arrives in a sleigh pulled by reindeer. His elf helpers are often greeted with a bowl of rice pudding instead of cookies.
England Children throw their wish lists into the fireplace so the draft can carry them to Father Christmas.
France Jolly Père Noël is assisted by the stern Père Fouettard (Father Spanker), who tells him whether a child has been naughty or nice.
Germany Letters requesting gifts are left on windowsills for the Christkindl, a winged figure in white robes with a crown of candles who is believed to be the messenger of the Christ Child.
Holland Sinter Klaas arrives from Spain via steamship, accompanied by Black Pete, a shipmate who helps hand out presents to good boys and girls.
Italy An old woman named La Befana brings candies to well-behaved children and coal to mischievous ones (according to legend, La Befana lost her own son and now wanders the globe giving gifts to all kids).
Spain Youngsters anticipate a visit from Los Reyes Magos, or the Three Wise Men, by setting out sweets for the men and water for their camels.
Russia Saint Nicholas presides over the holiday, but under Communism he was Grandfather Frost, and delivered presents in a blue outfit.
—C.B.
