French couple Jean-Pierre and Maité Durand have opened the doors to their Dar Sultan guesthouse, high in Tangier's historic walled Casbah quarter. Their converted riad is built around a columned courtyard anchored by an Andalusian fountain. Each of the six guest rooms is furnished with French Moroccan touches (lanterns, Berber rugs) and Arab and Ottoman antiques. Traditional afternoon mint tea and almond pastries are served at mosaic tables on the plant-filled terrace, where chef Fatiha eagerly trades recipes with guests. The inn is giving visitors to North Africa one more reason to discover Paul Bowles's old stomping ground. Dar Sultan, 49 Rue Touila, La Kasbah; 212-39/336-061; www.chicretreats.com; doubles from $103.
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