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Weekender: The Catskills

Joshua Paul

Photo: Joshua Paul

Where to Shop
The Potager 116 Sullivan St., Wurtsboro, Sullivan Co.; 845/888-4086. A combination nursery and gift shop run by a mother-daughter team, where you can pick up handmade quilts, gardening books, plants, and even old gas ranges from the early 1900's. In the café (lunch for two $15), the place mats are patchwork and the pies freshly made.

Country Emporium 134 Delaware St., Walton, Delaware Co.; 607/865-8440. In winter, the owners of this four-story brick Georgian go on shopping expeditions to Central and South America. That accounts for the hand-painted dishes from Mexico and the downy alpaca slippers from Peru. There are plenty of country goods, as well: jars of jam, Hoosier cabinets and hutches, pie safes with punched-tin doors.

Mercantile Main St., Andes, Delaware Co.; 845/676-4477. Across from the Trailways bus stop sits a long, low building whose ground floor is devoted to pristine mid-century modern furniture. The toy and game room, with some pieces dating back to the 1930's, provides gift solutions for the adult who has it all.

Pakatakan Farmers' Market Rte. 30, Halcottsville, Delaware Co.; 845/586-4177; open May—October. There are roadside farmers' markets throughout the Catskills, but this is the mother of them all. Thirty stalls fill the barn and the pavilion, peddling such items as fresh local trout, just-picked produce, and handmade goat cheese. Bread Alone, the local bakery whose wares have spread to New York City and beyond, has a stall here.

Blue Pearl 7751 Rte. 23, East Windham, Greene Co.; 518/734-6525. This three-floor emporium is packed with so many Chinese, Mexican, and Spanish imports, it could fill a maharajah's palace. The store is also the main gallery for Ulla Darni, a Danish artist and lighting designer whose hand-painted glass shades adorn custom lamps, chandeliers, and sconces.

Grandpa's Antiques Station Square, Rtes. 44 and 55, Gardiner, Ulster Co.; 845/255-6217. In the town's old train depot, nine dealers sell well-worn antiques. You won't find any Chippendale, but there's a trove of inexpensive furnishings, especially if you're hunting for something like a mirror or picture frame to brighten a hallway.

Clouds 1 Mill Hill Rd., Woodstock, Ulster Co.; 845/679-8155. For 27 years, Clouds has been selling one-of-a-kind glassware—such as Donald Carlson's red vases and bowls—and jewelry, like the opalescent pink seed-pearl necklace from Julie Shaw.

Apple Picking and Autumn Festivals
The roads in Ulster County are lined with orchards where you can forage for Empire, Fuji, Cortland, and Gala apples. Or you can venture into a pumpkin patch and pick your jack-o'-lantern right off the vine.

Heritage Craft Fair Bronck Museum, Rte. 9W, Coxsackie, Greene Co.; 518/731-6490; Oct. 14. Quilters, weavers, and candlemakers peddle traditional crafts in an old Dutch homestead.

Fall Garden Harvest Market Woodstock concert site, Hurd Rd., Bethel, Sullivan Co.; 845/295-2448; Sundays, Sept. 2—Oct. 7. Hit the market for crafts, fresh produce, and musical performances.

Catskill Harvest Festival Delaware County Fairgrounds, Walton; 800/835-1747; Oct. 6. At this seasonal gathering, see why Walton calls itself the "scarecrow capital of the world."

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