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T&L Reports: Volcanic Visits, Top-Notch Tissues

Toast of the coast
Cornwall's just-opened Hotel Tresanton — a former yachting getaway — has a pedigree that's irresistible to royal-watchers, food lovers, and design mavens. The new owner Olga Polizzi is the daughter of Lord Forte; the chef just finished a stint with the esteemed Marco Pierre White; and the lavish country-house comforts include a 50-seat cinema. On a rocky outcropping, the trio of whitewashed buildings has 28 shipshape guest rooms with antiques handpicked by Polizzi, who spent 16 years decorating hotels for her family's Forte Group. Every window looks out on the St. Anthony lighthouse (tresanton means "the road to St. Anthony"). Indeed, you'll love Tresanton's nautical atmosphere: chairs from a 1920's ocean liner fill the bar; a 48-foot racing yacht takes you out to explore Falmouth Bay; and you ring a ship's bell for drinks on the waterfront terrace. Hotel Tresanton, Lower Castle Rd., St. Mawes, Truro; 44-1326/270-055, fax 44-1326/270-053; doubles from $256, including breakfast. — Shane Mitchell

corso como
Carla Sozzani strikes again. The high priestess of Milanese fashion has opened the Café, a restaurant and bar that pushes the envelope of chic. At the edge of the fashionable Brera district, the Café is the latest addition to Sozzani's stylish bazaar, 10 Corso Como, which encompasses a boutique, music room, bookstore, and gallery. Designed by her mate, Kris Ruhs, the cast-iron, steel, and stained-glass room is remarkably warm — a perfect environment for a cool Cinzano. The Café, 10 Corso Como; 39-2/654-831. — Tom Mueller

mapping out
Forget photo albums and videotapes: custom-made maps on canvas are the ultimate travel souvenirs. Millwood, New York-based cartographers Julie Ruff and Constance Brown commemorate pilgrimages and treks. The duo use all the classic flourishes— cartouches, compass roses, Renaissance lettering— and are scrupulous about accuracy. They've plotted everything from road trips to a pilot's maiden voyage. "Everyone gravitates toward a map," says Ruff. "It's like a diary." Call 914/666-7235 or 203/288-4682; $500-$5,000. — Hannah Wallace

the buzz europe
Cologne: Pop culture has its own museum. Popdom — which also houses a cultural research center — is filled with sixties and seventies memorabilia.
London: Bindis, small circles worn on the forehead by Indian women, are the fashion accessory. They've even been spotted on hip British TV personalities. A set of six is $3 at Claire's Accessories.
Paris: Floating discos are rocking the Seine. This month, Phare pulls up to the Quai de la Gare, playing techno beats. For reggae, funk, and jazz, head to La Guinguette Pirate, a Chinese junk anchored near the new Bibliothèque Nationale.
Stockholm: The two Stockholm City Hotels have launched a fab service: free bikes for guests. Now there's a trend that needs to catch on.

into the future
When Disneyland opened in Anaheim, California, in 1955, Tomorrowland took a kitschy peek into the Space Age. Recently overhauled, it's now a scene out of a sci-fi flick. Looming overhead is the Astro Orbitor, based on a Leonardo da Vinci design (it spins above 12 planes that visitors can pilot themselves). Our favorite part: the Cosmic Waves fountain, with its five-foot-tall water jets. — Chris Rubin

Need a light?San Francisco's ever-funky Chronicle Books has issued packs of 24 postcards ($12.95) showing vintage matchbox labels from around the world. The four series — Upside-Down Heads; Birds, Beasts, and Butterflies; Mexicana; Light of India — are the best, or at least the brightest, way to write home.

jackie was here
Wherever Mrs. Kennedy went, the world followed. In the 1960's, artist Jacqueline Duhême tagged along on several state visits to document the First Lady's adventures— meeting the pope, lunching with the queen of England, riding a camel in Karachi (with her sister Lee, above). Duhême's delightful watercolors have been collected in Mrs. Kennedy Goes Abroad (Artisan, $18.95). Jackie's take on the camel?Duhême recalls her saying, "It makes an elephant feel like a jet plane." — Kimberly Robinson

Tiny Bubbles
Don Ho is back. Fresh from his first tour in decades, the swingin' crooner is in heavy rotation on Hawaiian radio and in hip bars. But his act is just warming up. When Don Ho's Island Grill opens this fall in Honolulu's Aloha Tower Marketplace, the devout can eat hulihuli (spit-roasted) chicken while watching clips from the singer's on-screen exploits. Keep an eye out for the Don himself, bound to make appearances at the restaurant and its Tiny Bubbles Bar. — Alex Salkever

out to save the world
Italy's two best-known volcanic sites have been attracting special attention these days: Etna is rumbling away in Sicily, while Pompeii has become the focus of intensive conservation work. Since being singled out as one of the 100 Most Endangered Sites by World Monuments Watch, Pompeii has received more than $800,000 toward saving its 1,500 ancient buildings. The three-year-old program — run by the World Monuments Fund — raises public awareness and awards grants to help preserve and restore deserving cultural locations, from the Franciscan Monastery Library in Dubrovnik and Mexico's Teotihuac·n to the Palpung Tibetan Monastery in Sichuan, China. For information, call 212/517-9367. — Mario Mercado

meet me in the caf
A 24-hour restaurant, so fashion-forward that the menu lists a hairstyling credit, is blowing away the gloom that has hung over this New York corner ever since Barneys decamped. Called Cafeteria, it's a white-padded paean to blue-plate specials, brought to you by designer Victor Alfaro and a team of hot-spot makers. At 3 a.m. sink into a banquette, as coddling as a leather seat in a '72 Caddy. Cafeteria, 119 Seventh Ave.; 212/414-1717; dinner for two $50. — Joshua David

the new power packs
Remember when Mom used to pull a Wet-Nap from her purse?Nifty towelettes — still great for travel — now exude personality. Bloom's Energy Blend of Essential Oils gives a pocket-size punch. But why stop there when you can go for Eulberg's Essential Love Stimulant?Comptoir Sud Pacifique's perfumed towelettes make it easy to tote scent. Dermalogica's SPF 15 Sun Swipes eliminate the bottle. And wouldn't Mom love the zesty refreshers from Crabtree & Evelyn and the Vermont Witch Hazel Company
— Jessica Dineen

an institution is back
Superchef Emeril Lagasse has gone decidedly retro with his third New Orleans establishment, Delmonico. Housed in an Edwardian building on the edge of the Garden District, Delmonico has been an institution for 100 years. Lagasse, who managed to tame his irrepressible personality, refurbished the interiors with ivory suede drapes and faux bois detailing. His menu is equally classic: turtle soup, beef Wellington, and profiteroles. Big Easy bon vivants settle in at the bar for desert-dry martinis and Arturo Fuente cigars. For Lagasse, the third time's just as much of a charm. Delmonico Restaurant & Bar, 1300 St. Charles Ave.; 504/525-4937; dinner for two $100. — Malia Boyd

every wish . . .
. . . is their command. Some of the most impressive tasks performed by hotel concierges around the world:
Colin Short, the Lanesborough, London: "Toughest request?Dinner for two at Aubergine. Second?A private audience with the pope."
Javier Loureiro, Four Seasons Hotel, Washington, D.C.: "A VIP tour of Air Force One."
Charles Fitzer, Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles: "Delivering snow to a guest's room for Christmas."
Aldo Banerio, Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town: "Dinner reservations at the Cape Colony restaurant for Shadow, spokescat for the Namibian Cheetah Foundation." — S.M.

zen garden
If you're not planning a pilgrimage to Kyoto, head to the recently renovated John P. Humes Japanese Stroll Garden in Mill Neck, Long Island. The four-acre Zen paradise was built in 1960 by Ambassador Humes and his wife after a trip to Japan. Today, you can take part in a traditional ceremony at the teahouse or walk on cool stones while evergreens rustle overhead. It's enough to inspire a haiku. Call 516/676-4486; open on weekends through October 18. — Reena Bammi

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