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Here's the deal: unless there's a convention in town, you can usually pay less than a hotel's quoted rate. Simply haggle with the reservationist or go hunting on-line. Speaking of conventions, should you be unlucky enough that your visit coincides with a big event, be sure to rent a car (taxis will be hard to find) and book restaurants well in advance.

WHERE TO STAY
Bellagio
DOUBLES FROM $159. 3600 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 888/987-6667 OR 702/693-7111; www.bellagiolasvegas.com

Caesars Palace
DOUBLES FROM $129. 3570 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 800/223-7277 OR 702/731-7110; www.caesarspalace.com

Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas
Where to escape from the ringing of slot machines. DOUBLES FROM $250. 3960 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 877/632-5000 OR 702/632-5000; www.fourseasons.com

Green Valley Ranch Resort & Spa
A Mediterranean-mod retreat, minutes from the Strip. DOUBLES FROM $159. 2300 PASEO VERDE PKWY., HENDERSON; 866/617-1777 OR 702/617-7777; www.greenvalleyranchresort.com

Hotel at Mandalay Bay
Sleek, all-suite hotel with Vegas's only topless pool (for ages 21 and up). DOUBLES FROM $109. 3950 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 877/632-7000 OR 702/632-7777; www.mandalaybay.com

The Luxor Hotel & Casino
DOUBLES FROM $89. 3900 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 888/777-0188 OR 702/262-4000; www.luxor.com

Palms Casino Resort
DOUBLES FROM $89. 4321 W. FLAMINGO RD.; 866/725-6773 OR 702/942-7777; www.palms.com

Ritz-Carlton, Lake Las Vegas
This lakefront oasis, 17 miles from all the action, has two of the area's top golf courses. DOUBLES FROM $269. 1610 LAKE LAS VEGAS PKWY., HENDERSON; 800/241-3333 OR 702/567-4700; www.ritzcarlton.com

The Venetian
DOUBLES FROM $259. 3355 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 877/857-1861 OR 702/414-1000; www.venetian.com

WHERE TO EAT
Vegas is for foodies, with outposts of practically every big-name restaurant in the country—not to mention some of its own superstars.

Aqua
DINNER FOR TWO $150. BELLAGIO, 3600 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S. 702/693-7223

Aureole
Watch chef Charlie Palmer's "wine angels" retrieve bottles from a massive tower. DINNER FOR TWO $138. MANDALAY BAY, 3950 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 702/632-7401

Bouchon
Thomas Keller takes his French bistro to Sin City. DINNER FOR TWO $65. THE VENETIAN, 3355 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 702/414-6200

Craftsteak
Tom Colicchio of New York's Craft does wonders with beef. DINNER FOR TWO $78. MGM GRAND, 3799 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 702/891-7318

Fiamma Trattoria
Sister to SoHo's red-hot Italian. DINNER FOR TWO $110. MGM GRAND, 3799 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 702/891-7600

N9ne Steak House
DINNER FOR TWO $150. PALMS RESORT & CASINO, 4321 W. FLAMINGO RD.; 702/933-9900

Nobu
The sushi really rocks at the Hard Rock Hotel. DINNER FOR TWO $200. 4455 S. PARADISE RD.; 702/693-5090

Picasso
Spanish chef Julian Serrano's masterpiece at the Bellagio. DINNER FOR TWO $170. 3600 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 702/693-7223

Renoir
The hottest reservation in town, from another leading food artist, Alessandro Stratta. DINNER FOR TWO $170. THE MIRAGE, 3400 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 702/791-7353

NIGHTLIFE
Ghostbar
PALMS CASINO RESORT, 4321 W. FLAMINGO RD.; 702/938-2666

Rain Las Vegas
PALMS CASINO RESORT, 4321 W. FLAMINGO RD.; 702/940-7246

Zumanity
TICKETS FROM $65 PER PERSON. NEW YORK-NEW YORK, 3790 LAS VEGAS BLVD. S.; 800/963-9634
—Laura Begley

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