Valencia’s Renaissance
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Valencia’s Renaissance

David Cicconi The entrance to the Ciutat de les Arts i de les Ciències. David Cicconi
This city on Spain's eastern coast is experiencing a renaissance—thanks in part to architect and native son Santiago Calatrava. Tom Vanderbilt returns to witness Valencia's second coming.

When I lived in Madrid, more than a decade ago, Valencia was rarely on anyone's radar. Spain's
third-largest city was casually known for its oranges and its paella and for Les Falles, the
boisterous, pyrotechnical festival that takes place each March, but it hardly felt like a
destination. Ten years on, Valencia has arrived. Its population has boomed; once-derelict
districts like El Carmen have become hip enclaves; innovative restaurants and boutiques have
sprouted; and the valenciano skyline has been embellished with everything from an
impressive contemporary art museum to the sprawling Ciutat de les Arts i de les Ciències,
Santiago Calatrava's swooping collection of white, organically contoured museums and theaters.
The 2007 America's Cup, the first held in Europe, will only bring more attention, more
discoverers.

For now, however, this orange blossom–scented regional capital—for which only two small
dedicated guidebooks in English exist—is blissfully free of the postcard racks and United
Nations–style polyglot menus that haunt some of Spain's more famous destinations. Sure, it has
the crowded cafés and tree-shaded plazas of Seville, the Moorish traces and ancient
monuments of Granada, the tumultuous movida (nightlife) of Madrid. Yet this old city by
the sea also has an identity all its own, as just one spin around town will attest.

WHERE TO STAY Valencia has never been thought of as having stylish hotels,
and when it won the bid for the America's Cup there wasn't a single hotel on the waterfront near
where the races will be held. Now, construction crews are hammering away on an old textile
factory near the beach, converting it into a luxury property to be managed by Westin. And this is
only the latest in the spate of new upmarket designer hotels that signals Valencia's change in
fortunes. The Palau de la Mar (14 Carrer Navarro Reverter; 34/96-316-2884;
www.hospes.es; doubles from $192
), housed
in an adjoining pair of elegant 19th-century mansions, mingles grand marble entryways and
staircases with 66 sleek rooms. The white walls, chocolate-brown floors, and antique tubs provide
a tranquil respite from the clamorous streets. • Those with more nautical tastes would do
well to head for Hotel Neptuno (2 Passeig de Neptuno; 34/96-356-7777; www.hotelneptunovalencia.com;
doubles from $170
), located on the Platja de Malvarrosa cheek by jowl with longtime paella
redoubt La Pepica. With its retro signage, Neptuno's exterior is evocative of Modernist Miami;
its interior, meanwhile, is pure Spanish design, with a dramatic glass elevator surrounded by a
cascading waterfall. • Located halfway between the Ciutat complex and the center of the
city is Puerta Valencia (28 Carrer Cardenal Benlloch; 34/96-393-6395; www.hoteles-silken.com; doubles from
$88
). Its aesthetic is crisp and colorful, courtesy of Javier Mariscal, the
Barcelona-trained Valencia native who most recently designed a floor at the Puerta América
Hotel, just outside Madrid.

WHERE TO SHOP Whether it's young señoritas thronging at Zara or their
parents haggling with fish vendors at El Mercat Central, the fantastical wrought-iron and glass
modernista central market in the Old City, shopping is pursued with gusto. Clustered on
or around the street Poeta Querol are scores of luxury retailers like Hermès, Santa Maria
Novella, and Loewe, as well as a few Spanish favorites. Valencia-born fashion designer
Francis Montesinos (25 Carrer Conde de Salvatierra; 34/96-391-2844),
whose own collections draw on everything from bullfighting costumes to camouflage, carries
designs that are as vivid and flamboyant as an Almodóvar film. • A few doors down,
Maison Parfum (25 Carrer Conde de Salvatierra; 34/96-394-0692), the
newest outpost of Barcelona-based olfactory wizard Ramón Mo-negal, offers a wide range of
evocative scents, from Herbe Juste Coupée (fresh-cut grass) to Orange Pressée du
Matin (morning orange juice). • Locals and chocoscenti are flocking to Cacao
Sampaka
(19 Carrer Conde de Salvatierra; 34/96-353-4062), another Barcelona
import, which offers cutting-edge bonbons infused with ingredients like black olives and
lavender. Well-heeled shoppers from the neighborhood drink sparkling cava and eat panini in an
inviting café in the back of the shop. • Americans would be remiss to visit Spain
without stopping by Zara Home (15 Carrer Jorge Juan; 34/96-351-3252),
the interior design outpost of the country's popular clothing chain. Load up on Moroccan poufs,
Chinese painted mirrors, and stylish linens. • Foodies have embraced Riff
Tienda
(14 Carrer Almirante Cadarso; 34/96-316-1146), a pastry
and wine shop adjoining the popular restaurant by the same name. • In the trendy El Carmen
neighborhood, a festive range of skirts and tops from young Spanish, Italian, and Swiss designers
is curated by Angela López Santa-Cruz at Madame Bugalú (3
Carrer Danzas; 34/96-315-4476
). • Shop-Suey (6a Carrer De la
Lonja; 34/96-392-6406
) offers an irresistible selection of housewares, books, and
objets, including a bespoke Italian foosball table with players from local soccer team
Valencia CF. • Art galleries abound in Valencia, but two of the best, My Name's
Lolita
(7 Carrer Avellanas; 34/96-391-1372) and Galería Valle
Ortí
(22 Carrer Avellanas; 34/96-392-3377), are within walking distance
of each other on a street filled with antiques dealers. • A few blocks away is
Galería Rosa Santos (21 Carrer Bolsería;
34/96-3926-6417
), a multistory aesthetic laboratory brimming with the experiments of young
artists.


WHERE TO EAT Paella is still beloved here—there's even a Museu di
Arroz—but a host of innovative chefs are raising Valencia's gastronomic standing. Intrepid
gourmands venture into the less-polished Grau neighborhood to seek out Ca'Sento (17 Carrer Méndez Núñez; 34/96-330-1775; dinner for two $250), the
intimate family-run haute temple now headed by Ferran Adrià disciple Raúl
Aleixandre (named chef of the year in 2004 by the Academia Española de
Gastronomía). Spain's most influential newspaper, El País, claims that
Sento prepares the best seafood—salt-grilled cigalas (crayfish), oysters with
green apple–and-lime granizado—on the Mediterranean. Note: menus are not in
English, and headwaiter Vicente Aleixandre is fluent only in Spanish and German, but the food
speaks for itself in any language. • In the Old City, La Sucursal (118 Carrer Guillem de Castro; 34/96-374-6665; dinner for two $120) is a serene,
polished hideaway within the Institut Valencia d'Art Modern that serves what it calls
"common-sense cuisine." Chef Vicente Torres creates imaginative dishes like creamy rice with
razor clams and octopus carpaccio—an intoxicating reinvention of paella—and the
regional fish lubina (sea bass) served in a bouillabaisse of fennel and mussels.
• Just off the Plaça Reina, hip Valencianos and tourists alike drink the bottles of
Burgundy and other vinos tintos lining the walls of the inviting Burdeos in
Love
(4 Carrer del Mar; 34/96-391-4350; dinner for two $80). In a warm
environment—Baroque accents combined with a modern interior—Irish-born chef Matthew
Calwin revels in local inflections, from croquetas de jamón ibérico to cod
with a pisto of eggplant and zucchini. • New City neighborhood favorite
Riff (18 Carrer Conde Altea; 34/96-333-5353; dinner for two $100) is a
calming white space segmented by gauzy screens that grant diners a sense of communal privacy.
Black Forest transplant Bernd Knöller, who moved to Valencia 14 years ago, works the room
when not in the kitchen, chatting with friends and offering the odd menu translation for dishes
such as grilled lubina with orange blossom and canaillas (sea snails). •
El Alto de Colón (19 Carrer Jorge Juan; 34/96-353-0900; dinner for
two $120
) attracts a refined professional crowd to its dining room (which has a mosaic-tiled
ceiling and views of the Mercat Colón) for Mediterranean dishes such as tuna in green
olive sauce.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO Visigoths, Arabs, and Romans, among others, have all left
their cultural imprint on Valencia. Last year, the city's august heritage was further illustrated
when workers restoring the city's 15th-century cathedral uncovered a set of frescoes by the
Italian Renaissance masters Francesco Pagano and Pablo de San Leocadio, which had been obscured
by later work. You can view the well-preserved paintings at the Catedral de
València
(Plaça de la Reina). • Housed in an
18th-century seminary with a distinctive blue cupola that is a Valencia landmark, the
Museu de Belles Arts (9 Carrer San Pio V; 34/96-360-5793; www.cult.gva.es/mbav) boasts one of
Spain's greatest collections—and with a mere fraction of the Prado's crowds. Wander among
the vast array of altarpieces, then marvel at El Greco's Saint John the Baptist. • A more contemporary experience can be had at the 17-year-old Institut Valencia
d'Art Modern
, or IVAM (118 Guillem de Castro; 34/96-386-3000; www.ivam.es), Spain's first modern-art museum,
which is planning a massive expansion by Japanese architects Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa.
Among the highlights: an exemplary exhibition of early-19th-century works by Valencian
Ignacio Pinazo. (A public square here is named for him.) • No visitor to Valencia should
miss the massive Ciutat de les Arts i de les Ciències (1–7 Avda.
Autopista del Saler; 34/90-210-0031; www.cac.es
), the monumental collection of museums and arts buildings
designed by Santiago Calatrava. Taking his cue from Valencia's brilliant light, Calatrava created
white expanses and shimmering tiles offset by blue sky and water. The complex will soon welcome
the new Palau de les Arts, whose inaugural season is slated to begin next October. In the
meantime, you can check out sand tigers (sharks) and exotic guitarfish at
L'Oceanogràfic, the world's second-largest aquarium; Foucault's
pendulum at the Museu de les Ciències; and stars at the planetarium
L'Hemisfèric. • Medieval ribaldry is on display at La
Lonja de la Seda
(Plaça del Mercat; 34/96-352-5478), the city's
unesco-listed 15th-century silk exchange (don't miss the rather risqué downspouts on
the gutters). • At night, students and stylish young creative types gather in El Carmen at
bars and cafés such as Radio City (19 Carrer Santa Teresa;
34/96-391-4151
), where every Tuesday is flamenco night. • Cap the evening off at
Café Sant Jaume (51 Carrer Cavalleros; 34/96-391-2401). Housed
in a former pharmacy, the bar specializes in agua de Valencia, an orange-based drink
that will cure all that ails you.

TOM VANDERBILT has written for the New York Times, Rolling Stone, and Gourmet.


Population 750,000

Local currency Euro

Official languages Valencian and Castilian

Distance from Barcelona 220 miles (south)

Major airport Valencia Manises Airport, 20 minutes by taxi to the Old City

(about $15)

Most popular attraction last year Museu de les Ciències Principe

Felipe, with 2,640,569 visitors

Number of sunny days annually More than 300

City symbol The bat, or lo rat penat (winged rat). One theory why: When the

Catalonian king Jaume I was about to capture the city from the Moors in 1238, a bat landed on his

battle flag


Horchata
One of Valencia's simpler pleasures is horchata

(orxata in Valencian). Unlike the rice-based horchata found in America, this

sweet, frothy milk-like drink made from the chufa (tiger nut) is said to have numerous health

benefits. Vendors specializing in the drink are ubiquitous, but a prime spot is

Horchatería El Siglo (11 Plaça Santa Catalina;

34/96-391-8466), which has been serving it up since 1836. True devotees can head to the

Avenida de la Horchata, a whole street of horchaterías, anchored by

Horchatería Daniel (41 Avda. de la Horchata; 34/96-185-8866),

which many insist makes the best glass in town.


Teresa Millet,
Curator at IVAM

RICE TO RICHES "For real paella go to Casa Roberto [19
Carrer Maestro Gozalbos; 34/96-395-1361; dinner for two $33
] in the Ensanche quarter. I also
love Ca'n Bermell [18 Santo Tomas; 34/96-391-0288; dinner for two $86],
an easy-to-miss tapas bar beloved by gourmet-minded locals." SOUND CHECK "Don't
miss renowned Spanish architect José María de Paredes's El Palau de la
Música
[30 Passeig de la Alameda; 34/96-337-5020; www.palaudevalencia.com]; all of the world's major
orchestras play here." HOLY ART "One place that is overlooked by tourists is
El Colegio del Patriarca [1 Carrer de la Nave; 34/96-351-4176], where
you will find a Renaissance cloister and paintings by El Greco."

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