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Undiscovered Paris: Je T'Aime

Eika Aoshima Tourists and Parisians enjoy an outdoor cafe.

Photo: Eika Aoshima

Although the east side of Paris has the most territory left to explore, there are hidden gems in other quartiers, too. Here are a few worth the detour:

First Arrondissement
Restaurant de la Cordonnerie 20 Rue St.-Roch; 33-1/42-60-17-42; lunch for two $48. Not far from the Louvre, this charming bistro serves traditional cuisine prepared by the owner's son, Monsieur Hugo Wolfer.

Second Arrondissement
Passage Choiseul 23 Rue St.-Augustin. A busy covered passageway lined with bookstores, restaurants, and clothing stores. Couture Choiseul 4 Rue de Choiseul; 33-1/42-60-42-86. An old-fashioned emporium that sells a variety of ribbons, buttons, and trims. Also take a look at Ultramod across the street (3 Rue de Choiseul; 33-1/42-96-98-30) for stylish chapeaus from the same owner.

Third Arrondissement
Musée des Arts et Métiers 60 Rue Réaumur; 33-1/53-01-82-00. Newly restored, this museum will stimulate your curiosity. The Foucault pendulum on display in the chapel is particularly dramatic. Wholesale silversmith district Rue du Temple. Around the mairie, small shops are crowded from floor to ceiling with trophies, tea sets, samovars, and gilded silver plates.

Fourth Arrondissement
Krystyna Bukowska 1 Rue du Pont-Louis-Philippe; 33-1/42-77-87-58. One of the most elegant boutiques in Paris for chic, cheerful, feminine clothing and accessories. Café Louis-Philippe 66 Quai de l'Hôtel-de-Ville; 33-1/42-72-29-42. Bourgeois fare at its best, with views of Notre Dame and Église St.-Gervais-St.-Protais from the upstairs dining room.

Fifth Arrondissement
Librairie Gourmande 4 Rue Dante; 33-1/43-54-37-27. One of the best cookbook stores in Paris (and possibly the world). All the classics on gastronomy, in new and old editions.

Sixth Arrondissement
Bois de Rose 30 Rue Dauphine; 33-1/40-46-04-24. Adorable party dresses and hand-embroidered smocks for girls. Buy a doll in a matching outfit.

Ninth Arrondissement
Passage Jouffroy 10 Blvd. Montmartre. Where Paris's adolescent fashionistas shop for inexpensive handbags and secondhand costume jewelry.

14th Arrondissement
Villa du Parc-de-Montsouris On the west side of Parc Montsouris you'll find cobblestoned alleys bordered by ivy-covered artists' studios. Also visit Square de Montsouris and Rue Georges-Braque.

15th Arrondissement
Marché du Livre Ancien et d'Occasion 104 Rue Brancion. On weekends, explore the used-book flea market east of the Parc Georges-Brassens.

16th Arrondissement
Café Antoine 17 Rue La Fontaine; 33-1/40-50-14-30. Have a beer in this bar-restaurant, with its original "style Métro" décor by Guimard, and don't miss Castel Béranger, the architect's Art Nouveau masterpiece down the street.

10th Arrondissement
Tisanière Porcelaine 21 Rue du Paradis; 33-1/47-70-22-80. Hôtel de Bourrienne 58 Rue d'Hauteville; 33-1/47-70-51-14. L'Atmosphère 49 Rue Lucien-Sampaix; 33-1/40-38-09-21; lunch for two $34. Antoine et Lili's Cantine 95 Quai de Valmy; 33-1/40-37-34-86; lunch for two $55.

11th Arrondissement
Café Charbon 109 Rue Oberkampf; 33-1/43-57-55-13; lunch for two $33. Robinet Mélangeur 123 Blvd. de Ménilmontant; 33-1/47-00-85-48; dinner for two $25. Le Montagnard 132 Blvd. de Ménilmontant; 33-1/43-49-42-38; lunch for two $15. Brasserie Le Soleil 136 Blvd. de Ménilmontant; 33-1/46-36-47-44. Pause Café Bastille 41 Rue de Charonne; 33-1/48-06-80-33; lunch for two $26.

12th Arrondissement
Marché d'Aligre Place d'Aligre; Weekends 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Le Baron Rouge 1 Rue Théophile-Roussel; 33-1/43-43-14-32; charcuterie and wine for two $10. Viaduc Café 43 Ave. Daumesnil; 33-1/44-74-70-70; lunch for two $41. Partie de Campagne 36 Cour St.-Émilion; 33-1/43-40-44-00; lunch for two $27. Vinéa Café 26-28 Cour St.-Émilion; 33-1/44-74-09-09; lunch for two $41.

13th Arrondissement
Le Papagallo 25 Rue des Cinq-Diamants; 33-1/45-80-53-20; lunch for two $41. La Piscine de la Butte-aux-Cailles 5 Place Paul-Verlaine; 33-1/42-76-78-10; admission $2.20 per person.

19th Arrondissement
Weber Café Parc des Buttes-Chaumont; 33-1/42-00-00-45; lunch for two $28. Le Rendez-vous des Quais 10 Quai de la Seine; 33-1/40-37-02-81; dinner for two (including movie ticket) $41.

20th Arrondissement
Le Piston Pélican 15 Rue de Bagnolet; 33-1/43-70-35-00; lunch for two $19. Best Affaires 94 Rue de Bagnolet; 33-1/43-67-10-25. Le Flèche d'Or (Now under new management). 102A Rue de Bagnolet; 33-1/44-64-01-02; dinner for two $33; www.flechedor.com. Lefebvre (Formerly Fournil de Stéphane et Sophie, now under new management). 120 Rue de Bagnolet; 33-1/40-24-01-43. Aucune Idée? 2 Rue St.-Blaise; 33-1/40-09-70-67; lunch for two $33. Café Noir 15 Rue St.-Blaise; 33-1/40-09-75-80; dinner for two $41. Le Courtil 15 Rue St.-Blaise; 33-1/43-70-09-32; lunch for two $19. Le Damier 29 Rue St.-Blaise; 33-1/43-72-16-95; lunch for two $24.


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