TACA offers direct service to Guatemala City from JFK; American flies via Dallas and Miami. The capital isn't recommended for long stays, but don't miss the Palacio Nacional museum (Calle 6 and Avda. 6; 011-502/253-0748). To book a tour, try Preferred Adventures (800/840-8687; www.preferredadventures.com), or, inside Guatemala, Clark Tours (011-502/470-4700; www.clarktours.com.gt).
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Casa Santo Domingo A former convent with a pool and restaurant. DOUBLES FROM $120. 28 CALLE 3 E.; 011-502/832-0140; www.casasantodomingo.com.gt
Posada del Ángel This very small and very posh guesthouse is where President Clinton stayed in 1999. DOUBLES FROM $175. 24A AVDA. 4 S.; 011-502/832-5303; www.posadadelangel.com
WHERE TO EAT
Mesón Panza Verde A favorite with Guatemala's upper middle class. DINNER FOR TWO $50. 19 AVDA. 5 S.; 011-502/832-2925
El Sereno A former 16th-century residence with outdoor dining. DINNER FOR TWO $40. 16 AVDA. 4 N.; 011-502/832-0501
WHERE TO SHOP
Loom Tree An extensive selection of indigenous weaving. 7 AVDA. 5 S.; 011-502/832-3179
Centro de Textiles Clothing from all over the country, much of it made by women's cooperatives. 29 AVDA. 5 N.; NO PHONE
WHERE TO STAY
Casa Palopó Exquisite small hotel15 minutes outside Panajachel. DOUBLES FROM $165. KM 6.8, CARRETERA SANTA CATARINA PALOPO; 011-502/762-2270; www.casapalopo.com
Hotel Atitlán A great old standard, with lakeside grounds. DOUBLES FROM $132. FINCA SAN BUENAVENTURA, SOLOLA; 011-502/762-1441; www.hotelatitlan.com
Villa Santa Catarina Immaculate, modest hotel with a large pool near Santa Catarina Palopó. DOUBLES FROM $70. 011-502/334-8136; www.villasdeguatemala.com
WHERE TO SHOP
The market days in Chichicastenango are Sunday and Thursday; in Sololá, they are Tuesday and Friday.
Guides can be hired at your hotel, or you can buy a map and wander off on your own. The ruins are open from dawn till dusk.
WHERE TO STAY
La Lancha Resort Francis Ford Coppola recently bought this remote jungle property, above Lago de Petén Itzá. DOUBLES FROM $95. 800/746-3743 OR 011-501/824-4912; www.blancaneaux.com
Camino Real Tikal A half-hour from the ruins of Tikal, with beautiful views. DOUBLES FROM $110. 011-502/926-0207; www.caminoreal.com.gt
TRAVEL ADVISORY
It can be dangerous to travel in Guatemala after dark. Also, it is customary to ask permission before photographing people.
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