The Rota Less Traveled

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Alentejo's Wine Route is about as modern as the medieval villages it passes through, so visiting the wineries can be a challenge. Be sure to call ahead for appointments. Two of the more dependable vineyards are Herdade do Esporão (Reguengos de Monsaraz; 351-266/509-280; www.esporao.com), where you should try the acclaimed Reserva, and Adega da Cartuxa (Évora; 351-266/748-380; www.jpvinhos.com), which has a wide selection of wines not available in the United States. Quinta do Carmo (Estremoz; 351-268/337-320; www.lafite.com), known for its reds, also offers tours. The Alentejan Wine Route association has maps and information on other area vineyards (351-266/746-609; www.vinhosdoalentejo.pt). Or let a tour company make the arrangements for you. The excellent Madrid-based Cellar Tours (34/91-521-3939; www.cellartours.com; two-day tours from $2,060) can get you into hard-to-visit boutique wineries such as Tapada dos Coelheiros and Herdade do Mouchão. One not-to-miss stop is the Vinhos Alentejanos wineshop (351-96/700-3631) in Évora. Ask owner Antonio de Sousa for Cortes de Cima's Incógnito and Reserva; Quinta do Carmo's pedigreed red; and Francisco Nunes Garcia's "Aragonês Alentejo."
—Anthony Giglio

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